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April/May 2008

Wine Review Archive - France, Champagne

Alfred Gratien Non-vintage Brut Champagne Classique ($40). An excellent buy, this Champagne is clean and fresh, with toast and yeast notes that accent the spicy pear fruit flavors. Nice finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 12/00)

Billecart-Salmon Non-vintage Brut Rosé Champagne ($50). A perennial favorite for brut rosé lovers, this is a delicate blend of red berry fruit and fresh pear flavors with delicious doughy notes and just a hint of citrus on the elegant finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 12/00)

Bollinger

NV Special Cuvee Brut Champagne ($45). Delicious package of voluptuous aromas and flavors, beginning with a mouthwatering yeast, fruit and mineral bouquet. Bold and fresh, with complex layers of pear and citrus fruit, mineral, delicate spice, toasted hazelnuts, and bread. Generous finish lingers for days. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

Nonvintage Brut Champagne Special Cuvée ($45). Mineral and slate notes are steely dry and beautifully layered with tart apple fruit that softens and ripens on the palate. Ends with a pleasantly soft, lingering finish. Ready to drink now. (Party Planning, 12/01)

1992 Brut Champagne Grande Annee ($90). If you're looking for a good value in an excellent vintage Champagne -- this one is a blockbuster choice. Well-structured, with rich spicy pear, sweet almond, toast, and a touch of pepper, and ready to drink now and over the next year or so. (Weekend Wine, 12/00)

1990 Brut Champagne Grand Annee ($68). Very uppercrust bubbly. There is a creamy subtext to this Champagne that is hard to beat. The sweet pear and toast flavors are balanced with just enough acidity. Wonderful finish. Excellent wine! (Skinny Guide to French Wine: Champagne, 12/99)

Bruno Paillard Nonvintage Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Réserve Privée ($60). Clean and racy, offering a floral bouquet and solid pear, apple, and fig on the palate. Outstanding, lingering finish. Wonderful now and over the next few years. (Splurge Wine, 01/01)

Charles Ellner

NV Brut Rosé Champagne ($42). Lush and smooth, with opulent red cherry and berry fruit flavors shining in this finely knit Champagne. Nice acidity supports the ripe character for overall balance. Very good. Ready to drink now. (Party Planning 04/05)

Non-vintage Brut Rose Champagne ($34). Boldly flavored and structured, showing sophisticated layers of crisp apple, citrus, sourdough, wildflower honey, toasted almond, and mineral. A substantial rose that easily pairs with meals -- we enjoyed it with grilled salmon and a tangy sundried tomato sauce. Very good now and over the next couple of years. (Weekend Wine, 02/03)

Charles Heidsieck

Nonvintage Brut Champagne Mis en Cave en 1996 Reserve ($45). A favorite around here. Yeast and toasted nut flavors accent the smooth pear fruit and add interest and very nice balance. A very good value (for a splurge wine!) and ready to drink now. (Splurge Wine, 01/01)

Nonvintage Brut Mis en Cave 1995 Reserve ($53). Bright apple and citrus, plenty of rich toasted oak and nuttiness, and a lingering finish combine to make this a versatile but still impressive nonvintage champagne. Drink now. (RLT, Weekend Wine, 05/00)

Nonvintage Brut Mis en Cave 1993 Reserve ($56). Yeasty bouquet, full of apple, almond, pear, sweet vanilla, and plenty of spice, this nonvintage has the distinct, mature taste of a very good vintage champagne. In that light, you cannot beat this price. Drink now. (RLT, Weekend Wine, 05/00)

1990 Brut Champagne ($45). Love the toasty aromas and flavors of this vintage Champagne. Lively fruit and a mature silkiness translate smoothly into a lingering finish. Very good. (Skinny Guide to French Wine: Champagne, 12/99)

Comte Audoin de Dampierre

NV Brut Champagne Cuvee des Ambassadeurs ($35). Excellent value, offering elegant pear and orange blossom flavors, along with nicely integrated layers of brioche and nutty oak. Medium-bodied, with good length. Ready to drink now. (Party Planning, 04/04)

Nonvintage Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($43). Full bodied and flavorful but still elegant, showing fruit that is round and rich on the palate. Accents include roasted nut, fig, and yeast. Quite versatile with food. Ready to drink now. (Party Planning, 12/01)

Deutz Nonvintage Brut Champagne Classic ($39). "Classic" is right – this is a wonderful Champagne that features mouthwatering pear and citrus fruit expertly layered with toasted hazelnut, bread, and sweet vanilla notes. Sophisticated from start to finish. Ready to drink now. (Party Planning, 12/01)

Dom Perignon

1995 Brut Champagne ($120). Offered beautiful, mouthwatering flavors that dance around the palate – this is an ebullient Champagne with citrus, fig, mineral and apricot skin notes that is delicious now and over the next two or three years. It paired beautifully with an extravagant dish of quail and foie gras over ginger spiked butternut squash. (Splurge Wine, 10/03)

1993 Rosé ($200). The coppery pink salmon color draws you in to the heady, floral bouquet, then the tightly focused citrus, mineral, red berry and baking spice flavors. It is awfully appealing now, but should get even better over the next few years. Served with ruby red ahi tuna medallions over a black pearl risotto – a feast of color and textures. (Splurge Wine, 10/03)

1985 Oenotheque ($300). Medium-yellow color and offered round, rich honeyed fig fruit layered with complex hints of toasted hazelnut, yeast, wet earth and chalk. (Splurge Wine, 10/03)

1973 Oenotheque ($400). An eye-opener. The bouquet and flavors had taken on the qualities of a mature red wine – what with all the tobacco and game and roasted coffee notes. Combine these with the full, brioche driven body and classic citrus and mineral notes of a vintage Champagne and it was really a knockout experience that everyone should have – at least once! (Splurge Wine, 10/03)

Duval-Leroy Nonvintage Brut Champagne Paris Label ($31). Bold and assertive, with focused berry fruit layered with yeast, toasted hazelnut and mineral notes. Excellent value – delicious! Ready to drink now. (Quick Entertaining, 10/03)

Egly-Ouriet Nonvintage Brut Champagne Non-Dosage ($35). This was a new Champagne house for me, and I definitely liked this wine. Maybe the name influenced me, but really, this was absolutely bone dry. Almost tanniny. Solid orchard fruit, a touch of citrus, and nice yeast and mineral notes. Very good now and should age well for a few years. (Weekend Wine, 12/00)

Gossett

NV Brut Rose Champagne Grand ($70). Red berry and mineral bouquet leads to a full-bodied Pinot Noir based sparkler that offers well-defined red fruit laced with spice and delicate milk chocolate notes. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

Nonvintage Brut Champagne Grand Reserve ($42). Complex and layered, this wine was a very nice surprise. Almost a pecan nuttiness weaves throughout the orchard fruit and other flavors. Ready to drink now. (Skinny Guide to French Wine: Champagne, 12/99)

Heidsieck Monopole Nonvintage Brut Champagne Diamont Blanc ($50). Absolutely loved this creme brulee of a Champagne. And a beautiful label, too! This is now my official special occasion wine. (Skinny Guide to French Wine: Champagne, 12/99)

Henri Abele Nonvintage Brut Champagne ($23). This is a personal favorite – especially the yeasty flavor that lingers on the finish. The pear fruit gives it a sweet note without going overboard. (Skinny Guide to French Wine: Champagne, 12/99)

Laurent-Perrier

1997 Brut Rosé Champagne Grand Siecle Alexandra ($125). Drinking so well at this point, with sleek red berry, toast, spice, mushroom and mineral notes mingling on a medium-bodied frame. Long, complex finish. Ready to drink now. (Wine Skinny Cooks 08/07)

NV Cuvee Rose Brut Champagne ($50). Wonderful spicy bouquet introduces fresh red berry and cherry fruit mingling with clove, cinnamon and bread dough, with a smooth, creamy texture and rich mouthfeel. Delicious. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

Louis Roedere

Non-vintage Brut Champagne Premier ($42). Intensely honeyed aroma leads to crisp apple and floral notes, with yeast, mineral and more honey on the finish. Very nice. Ready to drink now. Excellent with the oysters, which were topped with minced scallion and dabs of black caviar. (Weekend Wine, 09/02)

Nonvintage Brut Champagne Brut Premier ($40). This Champagne is an in-your-face attention getter. There’s nothing shy about the orchard fruit, toasted nuts, and creamy vanilla. Wonderful finish. (Skinny Guide to French Wine: Champagne, 12/99)

Moet & Chandon

Non-vintage Brut Impérial ($36). This is a medium-bodied wine that is well-balanced and features round flavors like apple, yeast, and honey, along with a subtle citrus acidity. It can compliment a variety of foods -- seafood dishes as well as rich cream-based soups. We enjoyed it with delicious fresh New England Scallops with a caviar "fondue" sauce. (Weekend Wine, 03/01)

Non-vintage Brut Rosé ($42). Simply wonderful. Lively and full-bodied, with wild berry and spice flavors that linger nicely on the generous finish. This wine can be paired with any number of substantial foods "traditionally" paired with red wines -- lamb, roast pork, grilled eggplant, and more. We thoroughly enjoyed it paired with a Charcuterie featuring Rabbit Pate and Duck Sausage with a delicious salad of baby greens in a Parmesan Crisp cup. (Weekend Wine, 03/01)

Non-vintage Nectar Impérial ($37). This demi-sec dessert style wine features velvety pear, almond, and candied orange peel flavors that linger delightfully on the long finish. (Weekend Wine, 03/01)

Non-vintage White Star ($29). This Champagne is soft and rather floral with orchard fruit emerging on the finish. It is a nice choice for an aperitif and as a versatile accompaniment to appetizers. We paired it with an array of hors d'oeuvres, including succulent Char-Su Quail Breasts with mango sauce. (Weekend Wine, 03/01)

1995 Brut Rosé ($60). Don't let the bubbles fool you -- this is essentially a red wine. This blend of Pinot Noir (60%), Chardonnay (35%) and Pinot Meunier (5%) is rich and substantial, with spicy cherry and earthy notes accented by subtle fig and apricot from the Chardonnay. (Weekend Wine, 03/01)

Mumm

NV Brut Champagne Cordon Rouge ($43) offers a fresh, fragrant bouquet that introduces rich layers of citrus, brioche, cream, and touches of apricot and butterscotch. Stays lively throughout the pretty finish. Ready to drink now. (Label Art 02/06)

NV Brut Champagne Cordon Rouge ($41). A wonderful value on this rich, elegant Champagne -- offering pretty citrus and stone fruit flavors layered with creamy vanilla and nutty, toasty oak. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 12/04)

Nicolas Feuillatte

NV Brut Rosé Champagne ($40). Practically impossible to resist, with its ripe, medium- to full-bodied style, red berry flavors and smooth, subtle spices. Balanced and easy to pair with food - or enjoy all on its own. Ready to drink now. (Wine Skinny Cooks 08/07)

NV Brut Champagne ($28). Possibly the best deal going on really good NV Champagne, this offers lush ripe pear and fig flavors layered with bright citrus, honeysuckle, creamy vanilla and a touch of spice that linger on the pretty finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 08/07)

1996 Brut Champagne Cuvée Palmes d'Or ($100). A full-bodied beauty, with lovely citrus, toast and caramel aromas and flavors mingling with bold berry and nectarine fruit. Long, complex finish lingers beautifully. Ready to drink now and over the next ten years. (Weekend Wine 12/04)

1995 Brut Champagne Cuvée Spéciale ($60). A classic Champagne, with richness and elegance in equal parts. Beautifully harmonious flavors include fig, apricot, brioche, mineral, nutmeg and roasted hazelnut. Offers plenty of structure and body -- could easily sell at twice the price. (Shhh! Don't tell them.) Delicious now and over the next 15 years. (Weekend Wine 12/04)

NV Brut Rosé Champagne ($40). Nothing shy or suble about this one! Bursting with red berry flavors and accented with loads of warm, exotic spices (think allspice, clove, anise, cinnamon...) on a full-bodied frame. Focused finish. Excellent with starter courses like smoked salmon or trout. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 12/04)

NV Brut Champagne ($26). Heck of a deal - buy a case! (We did.) Medium-bodied, with appealing creamy pear, bread, fig, citrus - all round and ripe and with good mouthfeel. Lingering, fruity finish. Ready to drink now. (Party Planning, 04/04)

Perrier-Jouet

NV Brut Champagne Grand Brut ($49). Always a favorite around here, with its delicate, elegant style, pretty apple and pear flavors, lemon zest and toasty accents. Finishes soft and smooth. Ready to drink now. (Splurge Wine 02/06)

NV Grand Brut Champagne ($41). Our annual favorite is fabulous again for this year's holiday season. Seductive and ripe, with luscious stone fruit, citrus, and a wonderful creamy texture. Lovely finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

NV Brut Champagne Grand Brut. Over the recent holidays I was reminded how much I absolutely adore (one must use the word "adore" when speaking of Champagne) this wine. For the past few years, I have been busy sampling Champagnes from other houses, but now I’ve come home to Perrier-Jouet again. Suggested retail is $32, but I regularly see (and buy!) it for $28 or so. Creamy and luscious, with bright apple fruit balanced with delicate toasty yeast and pure honey notes, this is just wonderful. Excellent on its own, but also quite versatile with food. Pop a bottle the next time you are nibbling on smoked salmon and see what I mean! (Robyn's Picks, 02/02)

Pol Roger 1990 Brut Champagne ($62). Smooth, nutty with a nice full finish. (Weekend Wine, 09/01)

Pommery NV Apanage Brut Champagne ($38). Complex layers of fruit, spice, yeast and stone wrapped up in a smooth, yet full-bodied package. A sophisticated wine with good balance, picks up appealing toasted almond on the finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

Ruinart

NV Brut Champagne R de Ruinart ($50). Delicately sweet, floral aromas mingle with crisp apple, juicy pear and orange zest fruit flavors. Accents include bread, almond and cream. A compelling, energetic, delicious wine. Mouthwatering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Splurge Wine, 06/03)

NV Brut Champagne ($48). Excellent quality and value here. Starts with a rich bouquet of toast, yeast, and sweet fruit that is echoed on the palate, along with racy fruit balanced with appealing toasted bread and nut notes. Elegant and full-bodied. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

Taittinger NV La Francaise Brut Champagne ($35). A delightful change of pace that would match nicely with a wide array of foods, this wine offers generous spice and acidity along with the green apple and pear fruit. Finishes clean and bright with a touch of mineral developing at the very end. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Weekend Wine, 12/02)

Veuve Clicquot

NV Demi-Sec Champagne ($40). Wildflower honey, creamy lemon curd, mineral and crisp apple notes mingle together in this nicely balanced rich/sweet bubbly. Perfect for summer fruit desserts. Ready to drink now. (Wine Skinny Cooks 08/07)

NV Brut Champagne ($50). Focused green apple fruit is softened slightly with toast and honey notes. Medium-bodied and versatile. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 09/02)

1995 Brut Champagne Gold Label Vintage Reserve ($68)! Heady bouquet introduces voluptuous sweet fruit balanced with a clean, mineral through line. Elegant finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Wine, Food, Bookclub 10/01)

 

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