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April/May 2008

Wine Review Archive: France:
Loire Valley White & Sparkling

Alphonse Mellot 2001 Sancerre Domaine La Moussiere ($19). Racy acidity shines through the layers of citrus, mineral, grass and green apple flavors. Gains intensity and depth through the finish. Very good value. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. (Winery Spotlight 08/03)

Alphonse Mellot 2000 Sancerre Domaine La Moussiere Cuvee Edmond Vielles Vignes ($40). Concentrated, spicy, herbal aromas introduce focused lime and gooseberry fruit. Slight mineral and herbal note emerges on the full finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. (Winery Spotlight 08/03)

Clos la Perriere 2000 Sancerre ($15) - This Loire Sauvignon Blanc was surprising in that it tasted so much like a California Chardonnay. It was creamy and somewhat oaky with a hint of cinnamon. It seemed to be missing the usual citrus, melon, or grassy flavors one expects from a Sauvignon Blanc. It was an okay wine, but a strange Sauvignon Blanc. (Weekend Wine, 08/01)

Didier Dagueneau 2003 Pouilly-Fumé Silex ($85). This is the granddaddy of Pouilly-Fumé, with a pricetag to match. But it's worth trying at least once! With complex mineral and smoke notes accenting elegant apricot and white peach. Dry, crisp finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. (Wine Tasting 08/06)

Hubert Brochard

2003 Sancerre Aujourd' Hui Comme Autrefois ($20-ish, we think) offered cranked up, mouthwatering acidity, with a pronounced pineapple character, but not overly so. Stone/mineral notes on finish were appealing. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 05/05)

2003 Sancerre Tradition (also $20-ish), on the other hand, is fruitier up front, with pretty peach and nectarine flavors. Citrus and flinty notes support from start to lingering finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 05/05)

J.M. Monmousseau NV Brut France Étoile ($8). 100% Chenin Blanc, this happy little bubbly from the Loire offers surprising complexity, with apricot and orange rind flavors with nice structure. Finishes with pretty almond tones. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 04/05)

Marc Bredif 2000 Vouvray ($14). Crisp and refreshing, with good acidity and definite floral notes underlying the sweet apple and honeyed pear fruit. Lovely finish. Ready to drink now. This wine really seemed to emphasize the sweet flavor of grouper fillets and worked surprisingly well with the salty feta and herb seasonings. An interesting match, but probably not for everyone. (Weekend Wine, 02/02)

Pascal Jolivet

2004 Sancerre ($23). Always like this wine, this vintage offers ripe citrus and gooseberry, mineral and lemongrass notes. Dry, mineral-driven finish. Ready to drink now. (Wine Tasting 08/06)

2004 Sancerre Les Caillottes ($30). Elegant and ripe, with pretty pear fruit layered with citrus zest, flint and a touch of cream on the generous, complex finish. Ready to drink now. (Wine Tasting 08/06)

1999 Pouilly Fume ($18) is a delightful and delicious wine. Nicely integrated fruit is accented with grass and chalky notes -- this could only be a Pouilly Fume. Sauvignon Blanc just doesn't taste like this from anywhere else in the world! Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 09/01)

1999 Sancerre ($19) displays textbook Sancerre flavors -- racy and tart, with a definite grassy note. The light to medium bodied sort of diminishes the overall effect of the flavors, but it is still quite tasty and enjoyable. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 09/01)

Remy Pannier 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Loire Valley ($11). Fresh and pretty, with sweet pea and hay accents to the crisp pear and citrus fruit. Picks up just a touch of mineral on the moderate finish. Not overly complex, but still tasty. Ready to drink now. (Drinks with Les Dames 04/07)

Serge Dagueneau 2004 Pouilly-Fumé Les Pentes ($20). One of the best Fumé in recent memory, and at an affordable price, with pretty peach, apricot, mineral and smoke notes that build through the creamy vanilla finish. Ready to drink now. (Wine Tasting 08/06)

 

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