Escondido Valley 1998 Pinot Noir ($9). This wine has good fruit — dark plum and black cherry, and a bit of spice that jazzes things up. It also seems to have just a touch of sweet purple grape juice — not even enough to call it off-dry — just a touch. In other words, it doesn’t exactly transport you to Burgundy. Or Oregon, for that matter. But it is a good wine, and we can definitely recommend it. I would think about serving this wine slightly chilled, just thirty minutes or so in the fridge ought to do it. It would pair easily with summer grilling, anything from vegetables to barbeque. And the value pricing is great — a mere $9 (or less) a bottle. (Texas Wine Pick, 08/00)