Cantina Novelli 2005 Montelfalco Sagrantino di Montelfaco ($40). Sagrantino di Montefalco a little-known DOCG in Umbria, made 100% from the Sagrantino grape, a red grape variety that offer bright acidity and plenty of spicy kick, along with rather tough tannins — but in the right hands can be outstanding. This example is quite good, offering concentrated blackberry, black plum, currant flavors that smooth out through the lush finish, picking up intense spice, blueberry, cocoa, smoke and fresh cut herbal notes. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2010-12-23)

Lungarotti 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon ($18). Very nicely done, with real varietal character. Red berry and cherry fruit, with a touch of soft plum. Nice mineral note. Tasty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. (Weekend Wine, 03/02)