Archive: France: Loire Valley: Dessert

Chateau de Fesles 1998 Bonnezeaux de Fesles ($19). Full and ripe with wet grass aromas and fresh tasting wildflower, nectarine, and vanilla notes, this is a beauty. Wonderfully balanced acidity keeps it from being over the top sweet. Wonderful now, and will age for several years.

Domaine des Petits Quarts 1997 Bonnezeaux Vendange grain par grain ($90). This is an outstanding example of how rich and powerful Bonnezeaux can be — incredibly sweet but balanced with perfect acidity; never cloying. Waves of vanilla, caramel, spicy apple, and dried apricot, with a shot of mandarin orange on the endless finish. So good now, and should age for at least ten years.

Domaine des Petits Quarts 1997 Bonnezeaux Le Malabe ($48). Wonderful tropical fruits like passion fruit and mango are the star here, with all the ripe musky flavors you can imagine. A refreshing toasted almond and spice balance things out very nicely. This one is tempting now, but could probably use three to five years of cellaring to really reach its peak.

Pierre-Yves Tijou 1997 Coteaux du Layon Chateau Soucherie Cuvee ($30) Excellent wine with a green tea spiciness offsetting the honeyed mango, apple, and vanilla tastes. Very well balanced. Hard to beat price for such a good wine. Ready now and will age well over the next six or eight years.

Chateau Pierre-Bise 1997 Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu Les Rouannieres ($28). Young and aggressive at this point, this wine will be a winner in just a year or two. The slightly bitter orange acidity is excellent with the super sweet tastes of honeydew, dried apricots and peaches.

Jo Pithon 1997 Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu ($25). Better than any pastry chef could do, this is a lush combination of toasted coconut, cream, vanilla, spice and orange zest. Hard to believe it’s so drinkable and satisfying without being over the top sweet. Wonderful now and will age well over the next three years or so.

Chateau Pierre-Bise 1997 Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu L’Anclaie ($24). Super doses of orange and clove begin on the nose and follow through on the palate and lush finish. Wonderful fruit flavor here, with a nice earthy, maybe even tobacco like, edge to keep things interesting. Drinking very well now and over the next year or two.

Domaine Cady 1996 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin Les Varennes ($25). Silky sweet orchard fruit, including apple and apricot, and intoxicating florals, balanced by a sharp lemon acidity. This is a beautiful wine that is drinking very well now and should continue to improve over the next three to five years.

Chateau de la Guimoniere 1997 Coteaux du Layon Chaume ($35, 375 ml). This is a decadent stunner of a wine. Bright lush mango and papaya fruit notes are enhanced by toasted hazelnut, nutmeg, and perfect orange peel acidity. Wonderful now and should age for twenty or more years.

Domaine des Baumard 1998 Quarts de Chaume ($40). Orange peel and honeysuckle cascade through the intoxicating bouquet and onto the palate in this wonderful example of the Quarts de Chaume appellation. Excellent acidity and balance are key. Give this beauty a couple of years and then enjoy over the next decade.

Chateau Pierre-Bise 1997 Quarts de Chaume ($60) Lively mango and mellon and nectarine are sweet but still refreshing. A nice mineral note adds interest and balance. Wonderful lingering finish. This is ready now and should continue to drink well for the next three to five years.

Domaine des Baumard 1990 Quarts de Chaume ($75) Take advantage of the availability of this wonderfully aged stunning wine. Rich golden fruit and wonderful acidity are still showing very well. White peach and apricot heaven.