Richard's Picks -- Chardonnay for Spring Occasions

We object to that whole ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement. Yes, it's true, there are lots of Chardonnays out there that suffer from being overly rich and heavy, without enough balancing fruit character. But Chardonnay is still one of all-time classic grape varieties.

It takes its name from a village in Burgundy's Mâcon region and is now one of the most widely-planted grapes in the world. Like most grapes, the style of wine it produces has quite a bit to do with the climate in which it is grown. Cool climates (Champagne, Chablis, even Australia's Yarra Valley) give sleek, steely wines with green apple and mineral notes. Warmer areas result in more citrusy accents, while plain hot regions tend toward the tropical melon and stonefruit flavors.

Unlike more aromatic varieties like Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, winemakers have to coax the fruit character out of Chardonnay - with careful vineyard management and winemaking techniques. Too often, the fruit is lost to (or, in the case of mediocre fruit, masked by) heavyhanded oak treatment and/or 100% malolactic fermentation.

But when Chardonnay is good, it's really good. It feels like wine in your mouth, with noticeable palate weight and complex, elegant flavors.

And it's a lovely wine for Spring occasions - paired with an Easter ham, a delicate seared scallop starter with pencil-thin seasonal asparagus, or for Mother's Day brunch and graduation celebrations.

Here are a few Chardonnays we've particularly enjoyed lately, at a variety of price points:

McWilliams Hanwood Estate 2006 Chardonnay South Eastern Australia ($12). Quite a nice surprise, starting with a crisp, mineral-laced apple character that picks up ripe peach and melon on the creamy finish. Ready to drink now. (World Wide Wine 02/08) Locate this wine online or in your area.

Moon Mountain 2006 Chardonnay Sonoma County ($13). Nice balance, especially at this price. With ripe pear and citrus flavors that stay bright through the fruity finish, picking up a touch of cream along the way. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Capel Vale 2007 Chardonnay Western Australia Unwooded ($16). We really liked this for its bright, refreshing character -- with pure apple and melon flavors laced with bright citrus. Clean, crisp finish. Ready to drink now. Great value, too! Locate this wine online or in your area.

Simi 2005 Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($25). A full-bodied Chardonnay, with rich, creamy character and ripe tropical fruits, but balanced with some bright citrus. Picks up cream and hazelnut through the long, full finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Artesa 2004 Chardonnay Carneros Estate ($26). Ripe, vibrant, aromatic tropical flavors are laced with warm spices, toasty nut, caramel and oak notes, with a long, evolving finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 11/07) Locate this wine online or in your area.

Leeuwin Estate 2006 Chardonnay Margaret River Prelude Vineyards ($30). Aromatic stonefruit and fig flavors are accented with nutty vanilla, tangy citrus and cream notes that fold together on a long, fresh but complex finish. Delicious now and over the next five-plus years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Frank Family Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($33). Very nice, with elegant, aromatic shadings of crisp pear, bright citrus and fig that build slowly through the seamless finish, picking up warm spices along the way. Delicious now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Robert Mondavi 2005 Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve ($40). A wonderful balance between creamy richness, bright acidity and an appealing mineral character, with ripe pear, fig, hazelnut, spice and oak notes that come together on the smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. (Weekend Wine 11/07) Locate this wine online or in your area.