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April/May 2008

Italian Connection - Cusumano

Whether it's sipping Frascati at the Pantheon piazza in Rome, watching the beautiful people promenade around the fountain... Or savoring a luscious bottle of Chianti in a cozy Florence trattoria. An extravagant picnic in Sienna featuring a Super Tuscan. Classic Venetian fish dishes with a white wine from Gavi or Soave. Exploring the classic wineries of Piedmont or relaxing by Lake Como with a glass of... anything! Italy is synonymous with outstanding wine, great food, and la dolce vita. It also happens to be one of our favorite place in the world and the home of some of our favorite wines.

Third generation Sicialian winemakers Diego and Alberto Cusumano are a great example of the "new Sicily" with its crop of young and talented producers determined to put the region on the quality wine map.

Long better known for bulk wines shipped around the world to be used in various blends, Sicily has begun to carve a niche for itself by using both indigenous grapes, like Nero d'AVola, and international varities -- and by gaining experience on the varied -- perhaps surprisingly so -- climates and conditions that Sicily offers.

We've recently tasted several new releases from Cusumano -- and sincerely enjoyed the experience. Very interesting! Good fruit, nice structure and good bang for the buck, for the most part. Here's the skinny:

Cusumano 2006 Insolia Sicilia ($14). Insolia is another indigenous Sicily grape, and this one offers some of the body and palate weight of a Chardonnay with the aromatic intensity of a Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp apple, ripe tropical citrus, maybe a hint of fig, and a dash of mineral combine nicely, with a long, fruity finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cusumano 2006 Insolia-Chardonnay Sicilia Angimbé ($14). Here, 30% Chardonnay is blended in, and the result is even more body and richness, with crisp apple and stonefruit leading the way, and cream and citrus zest accenting the full finish. Ready to drink now. Great deal! Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cusumano 2006 Syrah Sicilia ($14). Fresh red berry and currant flavors are touched with spice and toast. Supple and easy to enjoy. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cusumano 2006 Nero d'Avola Sicilia ($15). Smooth black cherry and ripe red strawberry are laced with a touch of black pepper. Appealing creamy texture. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cusumano 2006 Nero d'Avola-Syrah Sicilia Benuara ($18). Pretty floral aromas accent bright red currant and cherry flavors that pick up toast and light herbal notes through the focused finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cusumano 2005 Nero d'Avola Sicilia Sàgana ($36). Intense and concentrated, with aromatic floral and red currant flavors accented with warm baking spices, mineral and toasty oak. Long, bright, elegant finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cusumano 2005 Nero d'Avola-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Sicilia Noà ($45). Sort of a variation on a Bordeaux blend, with dusty blackberry and a touch of cedar. The fruit is pretty, but overall found the wine to lack the structure and complexity that a $45 wine should have. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

 

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