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August/September 2008

Past Issues: Wine Tasting, feb/mar 2002 -
Wine by the Glass: Riesling

Welcome to the continuation of our new wine tasting series. We’re going to explore the wonderful world of wine – glass by glass. This series will assist you in setting up your own wine tastings. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned wine aficionado, it’s not enough to read about this stuff. To truly appreciate and learn, you have to get in there in taste. Hey, it’s hard work, but somebody has to do it!

Earlier in the series:
Chardonnay
Syrah/Shiraz and Old World vs. New World
Using Sauvignon Blanc to figure out oak

Riesling

This is a sadly neglected varietal these days – outside of Germany, it’s pretty much overlooked by the mass wine-drinking population. Which is a shame, because it really is a classic wine. Fantastically fruity and clean-tasting, Riesling is a wine like no other. Get over your preconceived ideas about cloying sweet wines that have no place on your table and try these things. Still not convinced, how about this… Ask just about any so-called wine expert – sommelier, master of wine, etc. – to give you a list of the best wines he/she has ever tasted, and I bet that a Riesling will be in the top three.

This article focuses on the non-dessert style German Rieslings – primarily because these are the great "undiscovered" (at least by America!) wines that will really surprise you. Let’s address this deeply felt suspicion that all Rieslings are sweet. The fact is that these non-dessert Rieslings will taste about as sweet as the heavily oaked Chardonnays that are so adored in the U.S. The fruit profile is different – Rieslings have a clean, extremely fruity taste that can be mistaken for sweetness, even when the actual residual sugar levels indicate a dry wine. Rieslings also have outstanding acidity – that mouthwatering quality, literally – which makes these wines refreshing, sophisticated, and quite food-friendly.

Kabinett: Dry wines made from grapes picked at a "normal" level of ripeness.

Spätlese: Dry to just off-dry wines made from grapes picked at a slightly "riper" (i.e., slightly higher sugar levels) than normal – usually a few days after general harvest. These wines generally have a bit more body than a Kabinett.

So, the wine label needs to have either the word "Kabinett" or "Spatlese" on it – otherwise you may be getting into dessert wines. (Which are also delicious, by the way!)

The major regions to know are the Mosel (technically, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), Rheingau, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, and Nahe.

It’s difficult to get too specific about particular bottles to taste, Riesling import demand being what it is. But here are some excellent producers to look for:

Basserman-Jordan
Breuer
Dr. Fischer
Dr. Loosen
Egon Muller
Grans-Fassian
Gunderloch
JJ Prum
Kurt Darting
Selbach-Oster
Strub

If you’re looking for some food pairings, the choices are many. From just about any kind of broiled or sautéed fish, to shellfish, to delicately-seasoned chicken, Riesling is versatile. Then you’ve got the whole range of Asian foods which match beautifully with Riesling – Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, sushi, etc. As for cheeses, try a young, fresh goat cheese – you’ll be amazed at the different flavors that are emphasized with a Riesling rather than a red wine.

We are unabashedly enthusiastic about Rieslings, so please trust us and give them a try. And be sure and let us know how it goes! Email us your thoughts and experiences at editor@wineskinny.com.

Cheers!

TASTING NOTES:
We've found that our guests really enjoy the opportunity to "grade" the wines. You can make it as casual or controlled as you like. We tend to put out a pile of our tasting notes sheets and then encourage our guests to take notes. Somewhere toward the end of the evening -- or once everyone has had time to taste the various wines -- we like to have a little group discussion of the favorites. It really is a lot of fun to hear everyone's opinions of the wines, and there are always some interesting surprises.

The most important thing is to have fun with your tasting party. Branch out to wines that are new to you. Don't worry about the results -- everyone will have a great time participating in the tasting. And be sure to let us know which wines were the hit at your party!

For details on our past tasting party ideas - click here.

 

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