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August/September 2008

Past Issues: Wine Tasting Party, dec00/jan01 --
Wine by the Glass: Using Sauvignon Blanc to figure out oak

Welcome to the continuation of our new wine tasting series. We’re going to explore the wonderful world of wine – glass by glass. This series will assist you in setting up your own wine tastings. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned wine aficionado, it’s not enough to read about this stuff. To truly appreciate and learn, you have to get in there in taste. Hey, it’s hard work, but somebody has to do it!

Earlier in the series:
Chardonnay
Syrah/Shiraz and Old World vs. New World

Sauvignon Blanc & Oak

If you’ve heard all the talk about wines being "oaky" but not really sure if you’d know an oak taste if it bit you on the nose – this edition of Wine By The Glass is for you. We’re going to use one of the world’s most popular varietal wines – Sauvignon Blanc – as the basis for figuring this thing out.

France’s Loire Valley is often used as the model for so-called "Old World" style Sauvignon Blanc wines. The two wine regions to know here are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. These regions are relatively cool in climate, and the resulting fruit makes wines that are tangy, tart, and grassy, with high acidity and a laser sharp focus. They are 100% Sauvignon Blanc – no blending here. Most importantly for our purposes, they are generally not oaky. This is because these wines are made in either large stainless steel tanks or oak vats that are so large that they impart very little discernable oak taste to the wines.

If that last sentence didn’t make sense to you – think about it for a second. A small oak barrel full of wine will offer a higher ratio of wood contact to the amount of wine in the barrel, thus giving more wood aromas and tastes to the wine. Very large oak tanks result in a smaller percentage of the very large quantity of wine that is in actual contact with the wood, leading to very little oaky character in the wine.

California Sauvignon Blanc is a different story. First of all, many California wineries call their wines Fume Blanc, a name originally created by Robert Mondavi for his oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc. These days, most Fume Blancs are oak-aged, but not necessarily all of them. Usually you can take a look at the label to find out!

California Sauvignon Blanc fruit is generally richer and riper than its Loire counterpart, primarily because of the warmer California climate. To complement this fuller-tasting grape, many California winemakers age their Sauvignon Blancs in oak barrels. Overall, these wines are richer and more full-bodied than Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume.

So what does the addition of oak aging do for California Sauvignon Blancs? In short, oak affects every aspect of the wine. Oak barrel aging makes wine colors deeper – the California Sauvignon Blancs will generally be a much richer, more golden hue than the Loire versions. Oak makes the bouquet of a wine stronger. The Loire Sauvignon Blancs will seem rather closed – not a lot of scent there at all compared to the California wine. On the palate, oak makes wine feel fuller in the mouth and taste stronger and richer.

If all that sounds like the Loire Valley wines don’t smell or taste like much – don’t believe it. They are fantastic, clear, clean, refreshing wines that are loaded with zesty fruit flavor. But it’s true – they are way different from their American counterparts.

The best way to experience the difference is to lineup a tasting comparison. Here are a few to try:

Loire Valley: Henri Bourgeois, Pascal Cotat, Domaine Vacheron, Hippolyte Reverdy

California: Spottswoode, Simi, Caymus, Chateau St. Jean, Ferrari-Carano

TASTING NOTES:
We've found that our guests really enjoy the opportunity to "grade" the wines. You can make it as casual or controlled as you like. We tend to put out a pile of our tasting notes sheets and then encourage our guests to take notes. Somewhere toward the end of the evening -- or once everyone has had time to taste the various wines -- we like to have a little group discussion of the favorites. It really is a lot of fun to hear everyone's opinions of the wines, and there are always some interesting surprises.

The most important thing is to have fun with your tasting party. Branch out to wines that are new to you. Don't worry about the results -- everyone will have a great time participating in the tasting. And be sure to let us know which wines were the hit at your party!

For details on our past tasting party ideas - click here.

 

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