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August/September 2008

Past Issues: Wine Tasting - Wine by the Glass: Chardonnay

Welcome to our new wine tasting series. We’re going to explore the wonderful world of wine – glass by glass. This series will assist you set-up your own wine tastings. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned wine aficionado, it’s not enough to read about this stuff. To truly appreciate and learn, you have to get in there in taste. Hey, it’s hard work, but somebody has to do it!

We’re kicking off the series with Chardonnay, but before we jump in, a few tasting pointers.

Look at the wine. Color is an important element in assessing a wine. White wines should range from a pale greenish-yellow to a golden yellow. Red wines should range from a deep fuchsia pink to an inky dark purple. If a wine has a lot of brown color to it, that is an indication that it has either aged too long or that it has oxidized, usually due to a bad cork.

Smell the wine. Swirl it around in your glass and take a deep whiff. Swirling sends vapors up and out of the glass, allowing you to get a good smell of all the different scents contained in the wine. Smell is vital to a total tasting experience. You know how when you have a cold, you can’t seem to taste anything? Nothing’s happened to your taste buds – it’s because your nose has lost its scent detection capabilities. Don’t believe me? Try pinching your nose closed before taking a bite of dinner tonight!

So smell the wine! Don’t worry about being able to identify what you’re smelling. (Hmmm… is that black cherry or wild cherry?). If it just smells good to you – kinda like wine – that’s good enough. Just recognize that smell is a huge part of really tasting the wine.

Taste the wine. Sip a mouthful and hold it for a few seconds. Let the wine roll around in there a bit. Focus on how you get different taste sensations in different parts of your mouth – the sweet ripe fruit on the tip of your tongue, acidity on the sides of your tongue (you may notice your mouth watering!). Now swallow and notice how the wine taste in your mouth continues to evolve. Again, don’t worry about trying to identify specific tastes. Just reflect on whether it was an overall pleasant experience (or not!). Was it a "wow" experience? Did you make that involuntary yummy sound and reach for the glass again? Or did it leave you rather nonplussed and ready to try something else?

The glass. A lot has been made as of late over the "correct" wineglass. Yes, Riedel makes great glasses – a different one for virtually every type of wine. And as you get more into wine and settle into some favorite wines, you may well want to invest in some excellent quality glasses. But if you’re not ready to go there just yet, don’t despair. You can still taste the wine – from whatever wineglasses you do have. Typically, red wines are tasted from balloon-shaped glasses, and white wines from tulip-shaped glasses. And do try to have a good-sized glass, to allow for some vigorous swirling. Other than that – don’t sweat it!

Chardonnay.

Let’s face it. Virtually everyone and their brother make a Chardonnay. The U.S. produces tons of the stuff, along with most of the rest of the wine-producing world. Why? It’s a relatively easy grape to grow. It flourishes in just about any climate – from cool-weather Burgundy, to the famously moderate climate of California, to the heat of Australia. But while it can grow equally well in each of these climates, the character of the fruit (and the resulting wine) is decidedly different. Add to that the distinct winemaking style from these regions, and the result is a huge range of Chardonnay tastes.

So the goal of this Chardonnay tasting is to gain an appreciation for the different Chardonnay regions and styles. After the tasting, you’ll be able to identify your preferences, so you can feel more confident about choosing a Chardonnay from a restaurant wine list or retail shop.

We’re going to split Chardonnays into three general categories, based on climate and winemaking style. Understand that these are generalizations and that there will always be exceptions that you can pick up along the way as you experiment with buying and tasting new wines. This is part of the fun, so don’t stress out about it!

Category 1 -- Cool climate, little or no oak aging, pure soft fruit flavors. The classic standard here is the Burgundy region of France. To really demonstrate this cool style, we’re going to focus on three Burgundy regions – Chablis, Macon (or Macon-Villages), and Pouilly-Fuisse. (For more about these regions, plus the richer riper white Burgundy wines like Meursault and Montrachet, check out our Introduction to the White Wines of Burgundy.)

These wines will be a pale greenish-yellow in color. They will have soft, ripe aromas – you may detect pear and mild apple. And they will taste soft and delicate, with a characteristic acidity that balances the soft delicate tastes. (In wine terms, "balance" just means that the wine has some of one thing, and some of another – it’s not all soft and ripe, or it’s not all acidic. It’s balanced!)

Category 2 -- Moderate climate, some oak aging, bold juicy fruit flavors. It’s California all the way here (although a few of California’s regions are particularly warm and are included in the next section!). California made its name in the wine world by producing excellent quality Chardonnays that have some oak aging and feature more juicy fruit flavors than the French "Old World" style.

These wines will range from pale yellow to straw yellow. They will have loads of fruit aromas, featuring everything from citrus to peach to melon to green apple, and you will probably detect the smell of oak. They will also have loads of fruit flavors. And they will feel like they have more body in your mouth – this is the result of oak aging.

Category 3 -- Warm climate, plenty of oak aging, super-ripe round luscious fruit flavors. Australia is a great example of these exotic, luxurious wines. Add California’s warm Sonoma Valley and its super-ripe wines to this section.

These wines will generally be a golden yellow. The aromas will be exotic and tropical, and oak is often a dominant aroma. The will taste luxurious and rich – a much more full-bodied mouthfeel. The reason? A combination of how ripe the fruit gets in these warm weather zones, plus the generous oak aging that these "New World" style wines receive.

The tasting: purchase two or three bottles from each of the categories. You may as well try to be consistent on your price range – there’s nothing to be gained from comparing a $10 bottle of wine to a $70 bottle! My advice would be to shoot for the $15-$25 range, and where possible choose a lineup of wines that are all priced as closely as possible to each other. This is a nice middle ground where you will get a good basis for comparing the tastes and styles of the categories. Once you zero in on your own personal preferences, you can always experiment with bargain priced wines and special occasion splurges!

Pour about one ounce per taste. Compare categories or within categories, looking for the characteristics that we’ve described here. Try comparing a warm-weather Chardonnay with one of the Burgundy wines – they hardly taste like they could be made from the same kind of grape!

Finally, here are a few suggestions for specific bottles to include in your tasting lineup. But the point here is to learn about the three regions, not specific wineries. So we encourage you to just buy whatever you find in your local wine shop and start tasting!

Cool climate bottles – Verget, Vocoret & Fils, Chateau de Maligny, Georges DeBoeuf, and Michel Barat.

Moderate climate bottles – Beaulieu Vineyard Carneros, Artesa, Chateau St. Jean, Robert Mondavi Coastal, and Kendall-Jackson.

Warm climate bottles – California (Sonoma): Mueller, Stonestreet, and Ferrari-Carano. Australia: Nepenthe, Chapel Hill, Lindeman’s Bin 65.

TASTING NOTES:
We've found that our guests really enjoy the opportunity to "grade" the wines. You can make it as casual or controlled as you like. We tend to put out a pile of our tasting notes sheets and then encourage our guests to take notes. Somewhere toward the end of the evening -- or once everyone has had time to taste the various wines -- we like to have a little group discussion of the favorites. It really is a lot of fun to hear everyone's opinions of the wines, and there are always some interesting surprises.

The most important thing is to have fun with your tasting party. Branch out to wines that are new to you. Don't worry about the results -- everyone will have a great time participating in the tasting. And be sure to let us know which wines were the hit at your party!

For details on our past tasting party ideas - click here.

 

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