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April/May 2008

Past Issues: The Wine Skinny Cooks, apr/may 2000

A Spring Celebration Wine Dinner:

Spring is here again. Gone are the cravings for winter stews, holiday gravy, and all of the other comfort foods that keep us all warm and toasty inside. Now we want fresh herbs. Spring lamb. Dill every-which-away. Baby vegetables. Sauvignon Blancs. To celebrate, we've put together a special occasion wine dinner. Many courses, many wines. Think in terms of small plates of perfect bites. Enjoy!

The Menu:
Pâté with Walnuts
Caviar
Pacific Echo NV Brut Mendocino County

North Atlantic Smoked Salmon
Goldwater 1999 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Dog Point

Goat Cheese, Pancetta and Asparagus Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette
Chateau Ste. Michelle 1997 Chardonnay Columbia Valley Cold Creek Vineyard

Lasagna Verde
Castello di Gabbiano 1994 Chianti Classico Riserva Gold Label

Asian Lamb Chops
Spinach Timbales
Spring New Potatoes
Ginger Glazed Baby Carrots
The Hess Collection 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Cheese Board (try Stilton, Morbier, Manchego)
Fresh Pears
Chocolate Truffles
Cockburn 1970 Vintage Port
Coffee

Recipes: (all recipes serve 6)

Pâté with Walnuts
2 small celery ribs with leaves
6 whole peppercorns
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 pound chicken livers
Pinch white pepper
½ pound (2 sticks) sweet butter
2 teaspoons dry mustard
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1/3 cup chopped yellow onion
1 garlic clove
¼ cup French Brandy
½ cup chopped walnuts, plus extra pieces for garnish
Fresh chives, for garnish
French bread

1. Add celery and peppercorns to 6 cups water in a saucepan. Add the salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add chicken livers and simmer very gently for about 10 minutes; livers should still be slightly pink inside.

2. Drain livers, discard celery and peppercorns, and place livers in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add all remaining ingredients except walnuts and process until very smooth.

3. Scrape into a bowl, stir in ½ cup walnuts, and transfer the pâté to the refrigerator. Chill for at least 4 hours. Allow the pâté to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.

4. To serve, spread a tablespoon or so of pâté onto French bread slices that have been lightly toasted on both sides. Garnish with walnut pieces and a sprig of fresh chive. 

Caviar Hors d'oeuvres
6 ounces whipped cream cheese
3 ounces sour cream
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
1 Tablespoon minced onion
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
pinch of freshly ground black pepper
2 ounces black caviar
Good quality white bread
Butter

1. Mix cream cheese, sour cream, lemon juice, onion, dill, and pepper until thoroughly combined.
2. Cut bread into toast points. Toast one side. Brush other side with melted butter and toast that side.
3. Spread cream cheese mixture onto toast points. Top with ¼ - ½ teaspoon of caviar.

Smoked Salmon Course
Smoked salmon (enough for each of your guests to receive a generous slice)
Danish pumpernickel bread
Sour cream
Red salmon caviar
Finely chopped fresh dill
Finely chopped red onion or hard-boiled egg

Slice salmon across grain into 5-6" slices. Slice a loaf of Danish pumpernickel break into similarly sized slices (should be a bit larger than a large biscotti cookie). On each plate, crisscross a slice of bread with a slice of salmon (salmon draped on top). In the spaces around the X, place a dollop of sour cream, a generous spoonful of caviar (can use red or black), a slice of lemon, and a spoonful of finely chopped onion or hardboiled egg. Pass the peppermill.

Lasagna Verde (Green Lasagna)
¾ pound fresh pasta sheets, uncut (about 3 sheets, each 9 x 13" or larger)
2 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
1 cup whole milk ricotta cheese
½ cup grated imported Parmesan cheese
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 cups fresh basil leaves, washed and dried
2 - 3 Tablespoons olive oil
11 ounces Montrachet, or other soft goat cheese
3 Tablespoons heavy cream
4 Tablespoons sweet butter
6 Tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
salt, freshly ground black pepper, and nutmeg, to taste

1. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Stir in 2 Tablespoons salt and cook the sheets of pasta, one at a time; each will be done in 2 minutes or so. As each sheet is done, transfer it immediately to a large bowl of cold water.

2. Bring 2 quarts water to a boil in another pan. Add 1 Tablespoon salt and stir in the defrosted spinach. Cook for 1 minute, drain immediately, and transfer spinach to another bowl of cold water.

3. Mix ricotta and 3 Tablespoons of the Parmesan together in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

4. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, purée basil leaves and 2 - 3 Tablespoons olive oil.

5. In another bowl, cream together the basil purée, three-quarters of the goat cheese (at this point, place remaining goat cheese in freezer to harden for later), and the heavy cream.

6. Drain spinach and squeeze as much water as possible out of it with your hands. Stir spinach into the ricotta mixture and correct seasoning.

7. Drain the sheets of pasta and pat thoroughly dry on paper towels.

8. Preheat oven to 375°F.

9. Make white sauce. Place milk in a small saucepan. Heat over medium heat while making rest of sauce. In another saucepan, melt butter. Sprinkle in flour and cook gently, stirring almost constantly, for 5 minutes. Do not let the mixture brown. Remove from heat; pour in heated milk all at once; whisk vigorously to combine. Return pan to medium heat and bring sauce to boil, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes or until thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

10. Assembly: Smear one third of the white sauce evenly over the bottom of a 9 x 13 baking dish. Arrange a sheet of pasta over the sauce, trimming as necessary. Spread all of the spinach and ricotta mixture over pasta, being sure to cover to the edges. Place a second layer of pasta over the spinach. Spread half of remaining white sauce over pasta, and spread all of the basil and goat cheese mixture over the sauce (don't worry if this all gets mixed up together). Top this with the final sheet of pasta. Spread remaining white sauce evenly over the top. Cut very cold remaining goat cheese into thin slices. Arrange over top of lasagna. Sprinkle with remaining Parmesan.

11. Bake in upper third of oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it is bubbling and top is lightly browned. Serve immediately.

Asian Lamb Chops
3 Tablespoons dark Oriental sesame oil
6 thick lamb chops
½ cup finely chopped yellow onion
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 Tablespoons soy sauce
3 Tablespoons Oriental red chile paste
¾ cup orange marmalade
2 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1½ Tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot

1. Heat sesame oil in a skillet large enough to hold all the chops. Add chops and brown lightly on both sides. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

2. Add the onion and garlic to skillet. Cook, covered, over low heat for about 15 minutes until tender and lightly colored. Add soy sauce, chile paste, marmalade, vinegar, and gingerroot. Simmer for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

3. Return chops to the skillet, cover, and cook over low heat, turning once, until done, about 7 minutes for medium-rare. Serve immediately, spooning sauce over chops.

Spinach Timbales
½ recipe White Sauce (like in the Lasagna Verde recipe, above)
2 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, defrosted, cooked, drained well
3 beaten eggs
½ cup grated imported Parmesan cheese
¼ cup chicken or vegetable stock
Salt, white pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients. Pour into greased timbale cups. Place cups in a baking dish filled with water to level of filling. Bake in 325° oven for about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the mold, until a knife inserted into the center of one comes out clean.

Spring New Potatoes
24 tiny new potatoes (can use red or white potatoes)
6 Tablespoons sweet butter
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
8 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill

Scrub potatoes and dry. Melt butter in a heavy flameproof casserole with a tight-fitting cover. Add potatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir to coat evenly with butter. Cover and cook over low heat for 45 minutes, stirring gently occasionally, until tender. Toss with dill and serve.

Ginger Glazed Baby Carrots
24 - 30 baby carrots, trimmed if necessary
4 Tablespoons sweet butter, melted
¼ cup brown sugar
1 Tablespoon fresh minced gingerroot
1/3 teaspoon caraway seeds

1. Place carrots in a saucepan and add cold water to cover. Cook carrots until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain carrots.

2. Melt butter in a small saucepan. Add brown sugar, gingerroot and caraway seeds. Mix. Add carrots, stir gently, and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve.

 

Wine, Cheese & Fruit
The simplicity of a well-matched wine and cheese is hard to beat. Throw in a little fruit, and you have a meal. Each issue, we'll suggest a current favorite combo:

Franciscan Oakville Estate 1998 Chardonnay ($14)
Brie
Dried Currants

To check out our previous Wine Skinny Cooks features - click here.

 

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