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April/May 2008

Travel with the Wine Skinny:
Mildly Bewildered but Totally Enchanted in India

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Jaipur
As the capital city of the Rajasthan region, Jaipur is known as the "pink city" for the pink hue that was applied in 1905 to all the houses in the old city in honor of the visiting Prince of Wales. Jaipur is full of gardens and palaces and (another) fort, and also offers loads of jewelry shopping - especially sapphires at high-end shops.

An elephant ride up to the Amber Fort was more fun than expected. Our ride's name was Desmina, and she had to pee about half way up the path. I have to say - she showed remarkable Steel Magnolia grace and kept her head high while creating a bit of a river for the line of elephants and their tourist riders in line behind us.

At the Oberoi Rajvilas hotel, we had a gorgeous luxury tent accommodation, fully air-conditioned, with teak floors, a clawfoot bathtub, plush linens and our own back patio. As with all the hotels we visited, service was exceptional - and we loved it, even as we flung ourselves off our India-spiritual-wagon and paid eighty bucks each for two (or was it three?) bottles of Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc. My only explanation is that it was just time to do it...

Agra & the Taj Mahal
Of course, the Taj Mahal was a big part of the motivation of this trip - but we wondered if it could possibly live up to our expectations. It did; and then some. We spent the better part of an afternoon wandering the pristine grounds, gazing at the awesome structure from various angles, then climbing the steps to the front entrance to see the relatively small interior rooms that are open to tourists.

The Taj seems to have a pulse of its own, throbbing silently but emphatically as it drew us in. The changing light - even over a 30 minute period - is every bit as remarkable as they say. Going back later that evening to see it lit solely by the light of a full moon was a once in a lifetime experience that I can say - without a trace of exaggeration - has stayed burned in my sense memory. I can still feel it.

Resources & Tips:
SITA Tours
Agent: Anshuman Khanna
www.sitatours.com

Tips:
We got all the shots and took all the malaria medicine recommended. To be honest, I'm not sure we really needed all that, but it was nice to not worry about it during the trip.

Same goes for all the pepto bismol, various first aid items, water purifiers and energy bars that we started out with, but systematically dumped as valuable luggage space was needed for purchases. The only items that we held onto for the whole trip were mosquito spray, sunscreen and Dramamine.

Bring loads of one-dollar bills and pass them out generously.

At the hotels, you'll have the opportunity to tip the staff when you check out. It's much easier than trying to convince random staffers to accept a gratuity in person, when they so obviously are trying not to offend you by refusing.

Take advantage of the lovely breakfasts offered as part of your room price - they kept us going through some long fort tours.

Our guides wanted to treat us like fragile, foreign dolls that couldn't handle seeing anything unpleasant or being jostled in any way. While that's very nice, we realized that we needed to insist on going to places like the old bazaars. But then it was great - the trip wouldn't have been the same if we had allowed ourselves to be totally sheltered the whole time.

by Robyn Tinsley, Managing Editor
images by D'Lesli Davis

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