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April/May 2008

Past Issues:
Travel with the Wine Skinny, feb/mar 2002 --
London Insider Restaurants

We definitely went off the beaten path on our recent trip to London. Armed with the advice and personal guidance of a local, we had a great time experiencing some of these insider spots.

Kettners
29 Romilly Street, W1
Tube Stop: Leicester Square
Tel: 020 7437 6437

We spent a bit of time at the Champagne Bar at this Soho classic (founded in 1868 by Napoleon III’s chef). Three levels of restaurant here, split into various dining rooms, and offering what looked to be fairly basic cuisine. Reportedly Oscar Wilde’s favorite restaurant… Could be because of the grand list of grand Champagnes, though we suspect there may have been more to it than that. The Champagne Bar is a good place to rest and refresh after a walk through Soho.

The Grenadier
18 Wilton Row, SW1
Tube Stop: Hyde Park Corner
Tel: 020 7235 3074

After much delightful wandering, guide book in hand, and several offers of assistance from friendly workers, we finally found this famous pub. Tucked away near the end, up a small hill, around the corner, of a mews cul-de-sac in Belgravia, The Grenadier is worth the effort. Excellent ambiance – picture perfect, in fact. Just what we Americans want by way of an English pub. (And I assume the locals agree, judging by the crowd). Traditional British dishes, probably at rather higher than normal prices, given the posh Belgravia location. We tried the potted shrimp – very nice, thank you. Great hang out. They say the place is haunted by a soldier who was killed by fellow card players after being caught cheating. As we wandered out by the light of the huge Victorian gas lamp outside, it seemed entirely possible to us!

Lemonia
89 Regent’s Park Road, NW1
Tube Stop: Chalk Farm
Tel: 020 7586 7454

We’ve always been a sucker for good Greek food, especially in a boisterous setting like Lemonia. Our meze assortment was delicious – one of the best in recent memory. Prices are quite reasonable, and the service was very friendly. We weren’t entirely sure why we made the trip all the way out to Regent’s Park, but Lemonia was most definitely worth it.

Back to Basics
21A Foley Street, W1
Tube Stop: Goodge Street
Tel: 020 7436 2181
http://www.backtobasics.uk.com/

We were checking out the Charlotte Street Hotel (sister hotel to ours – The Pelham) one day, when someone recommended Back to Basics as a low-key choice for excellent fresh fish. To say we were nonplussed at the name, but decided to try it anyway. What a nice surprise! Kinda kitschy, but in a cute way. And they were right – delicious fresh fish. We loved the crab claws served warm in a garlicky tomato broth. Messy, but worth it. And a good wine list with a nice array of mostly-French choices that beautifully matched the cuisine, and at nice prices! As a tourist, you’d probably never just happen by this place – you need to take the address and a map, and go find it. I definitely recommend it.

Casale Franco
137 Upper Street, N5
Tube Stop: Highbury, Islington
Tel: 020 7226 8994

Okay, the reason we were up in this area was because this is where St. Paul’s Cathedral is located, which I wanted to see. From there, we knew that Upper Street – north of St. Paul’s – has lately become known for the multitude of good cafes. So off we went.

Casale Franco is apparently one of the Upper Street trendsetters and with good reason. We had some of the best pizza I’ve ever had outside of Italy. Perfect thin crust. Cooked directly on terracotta tiles. A definite buzz in this place – hip, in-the-know vibe, but still relaxed. A pleasure!

6 Clarendon Road
6 Clarendon Road, W11
Tube Stop: Holland Park
Tel: 020 7727 3330

Our aforementioned local is a Notting Hill guy, and this is one of his regular haunts. Busy, small, neighborhood-y, its limited menu (I’m talking five entrees) features French and "New French" dishes, prepared with exquisite attention to detail. Very nice wine list, also carefully-chosen, with reasonable prices. This is definitely a place to be savored and in which to linger. Just as well, given the "slow food" approach to otherwise friendly service.

 

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