Tasting Bordeaux: "Generic" Bordeaux

It seems to me that the best place to begin is with "generic" Bordeaux – that is, a wine from anywhere in the region without additional "sub-appellation" pedigree (like Margaux or Pomerol). These are Bordeaux table wines, if you will, with prices to match. Typically, these are wines made from grapes (or wines) from growers across the region (rather than from one estate or vineyard).

Naturally, there is a range of quality here. At worst, they can be dull and light – like many cheap table wines. But at best, they can be flavorful and slightly rustic. Really "of the land" in the way that inspires a big country picnic table overflowing with crusty breads, local cheeses, green salads, and grilled meats.

Without question, the best known Bordeaux AOC wine is Mouton-Cadet, one of the brands from Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, famous for its Pauillac and place in Bordeaux history. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild uses much of its wine that may not be up to its Pauillac standard to blend into Mouton-Cadet. Wine experts are unanimous that this wine is a consistently high quality for the money.

As mentioned, these generic Bordeaux are blends – usually including some of each of the big three Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, sometimes with additions of Malbec, Petie Verdot, and/or Carmenere. Generally speaking, these wines should be drunk young. They should be a clear, bright ruby red and exhibit balanced and clean-tasting flavors. There are dozens of these so-called "generic" or regional Bordeaux AOCs. For purposes of this article, we’ve narrowed down the selection to:

Bordeaux
Bordeaux Superieur
Bordeaux Superieur – Cotes de Castillon
Bordeaux Superieur – Cotes de Francs
Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux
Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux
Blaye (or Blayis)
Premieres Cotes de Blaye
Bourg-Bourgeais
Cotes de Bourg
Canon-Fronsac
Fronsac
Graves de Vayres
Lalande-de-Pomerol Neac

With these appellation names in hand, we went wine shopping. We limited our price range to under-$20 and were pleased at the selection we found. Here’s what we bought – and what we’ll be drinking over the next month:

Mouton Cadet 1998 Bordeaux ($9)
Chateau du Plantier 2000 Bordeaux ($7)
Dom. Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 1999 Bordeaux Reserve Speciale ($12)
Chateau Bonnet 1999 Bordeaux ($10)
Chateau Cadillac-Branda 1999 Bordeaux Superieur ($9)
Chateau Le Gay 1998 Bordeaux Superieur ($11)
Chateau Robin 1998 Cotes de Castillon ($14)
Chateau Fontenil 1999 Fronsac ($19)

We’ll report back next issue with our tasting notes on these wines, as well as the introduction to the next part of our Bordeaux tasting – the Medoc...