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June/July 2008

Past Issues, oct/nov 2002: Splurge Wine

Our Splurge Wine feature often begins with a Celebrity Splurge Wine quote. Here, food and wine professionals, as well as other celebrities who have a passion for fine food and wine, answer the following question:

When it’s time to celebrate with a special bottle of wine, what wine do you choose?

Gerard Crozier, Chef/Owner, Chateaubriand, New Orleans. "It depends on what kind of woman I have with me."

Wine Skinny Splurge: California Cabernet

Cabernet Sauvignon is still considered to be California’s flagship wine. Its classic concentrated black cherry and plum fruit, accented with an array of spice, herbs, tobacco, and cedar, becomes a powerful but supple, vanilla oak-laced blockbuster wine in the hands of California winemakers. To our minds, a bunch of Americans who got to know California Cabs first and best in our personal wine histories, it tastes like home.

But wow. Those prices do just keep going up. And like it or not, California Cabernet has become more of a special occasion wine than an everyday one. With some notable exceptions (bottles from Hess Collection, Carmenet, Sebastiani, Chateau Souverain) the high quality wines start at $25, quickly jump over the $30 mark, with a whole bunch over $60, and up from there.

We’ve recently tasted several wonderful California Cabernets that we unreservedly recommend as being beautiful realizations of California’s now classic winemaking style. We have several bottles squirreled away for upcoming holiday occasions. Any of these would be great choices for your next splurge moment:

Robert Craig 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Mt. Veeder  ($48). Beautifully structured, offering elegant layers of currant and concentrated black cherry fruit, cedar, tobacco, and mocha – all on a ripe, tannic frame. Outstanding finish that lingers and evolves. Delicious now and should age beautifully for at least four or five years.

Frei Brothers 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Reserve ($24). Ripe red cherry and concentrated blackberry fruit is accented with mint and toasty vanilla oak. Serious tannic structure would benefit from additional bottle age (or decant it for a few hours; we did!). This would be a great wine to pair with bold, hearty food – think something like a pepper-crusted steak!

Gallo of Sonoma 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley Frei Vineyard ($28). Concentrated blackberry and black plum fruit is studded with licorice, tobacco, spicy cedar and toasty oak. Big tannic structure would benefit from decanting or aging. Very good now, and will continue to improve over the next six or seven years. 

Turnbull 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville ($35). Focused black cherry and blackberry are smoothed out with luscious plum fruit. Accents include mint, spice and cedar. Lingering finish picks up toasty oak and more herbal notes. All beautifully packaged and framed on solid but well-integrated tannins. Ready to drink now and over the next six or seven years.

Pine Ridge 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford ($33). Jammy red cherry and berry fruit plays off mocha, leather, and spice, with toasty vanilla oak emerging on the generous finish. Wonderful now and over the next five or six years.

If you have questions, comments, or Splurge Wines to suggest, please write us at editor@wineskinny.com

For past Splurge Wine picks, click here.

 

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