Restaurant
Review: Wolfe's of New Orleans
 Visitors
to the Big Easy should definitely escape
the French Quarter for an evening and make
a date at Wolfe's of New Orleans. The awards
have been piling up for Chef/Owner Tom Wolfe
and his restaurant, from a Bon Appetit Top
Table mention, to the recent nod as a 2003
Star Chefs Rising Chef nominee.
Chef Wolfe's background includes stints
at two New Orleans landmarks, Mr. B's Bistro
and Emeril's, and he has obviously brought
that sense of classic Louisiana cuisine
to his own kitchen.
Housed in a quaint lakefront cottage that
looks like it could have been moved straight
from Cape Cod, Wolfe's of New Orleans has
charm to spare. Warm yellow walls, a gleaming
copper chimney and cobalt blue chairs combine
to make a warm, welcoming interior.
The menu shows inventive tweaks and variations
to the classic New Orleans cuisine of Wolfe's
background and youth. Standout starters
include Garlic Crusted Oyster Nachos with
shoestring mirleton (only in New Orleans!),
roasted peppers and pepperjack cheese. Sautéed
sweetbreads are served on brioche with goat
cheese and caramelized orange peels
and are fabulous.
On the entrée front, Roasted
Duck is slicked with Louisiana cane syrup
with spectacular success, served with
a foie gras stuffed apple, an onion confit
and goat cheese beggars purse, and Calvados
reduction. Grilled Lamb Chops were beautifully
seasoned and served alongside lamb sausage
in a heady tarragon reduction. Panko
Crusted Redfish was light and tender,
with pan fried jumbo lump crap toast, sautéed
baby spinach, fried garlic and a smoked
Gouda veloute.
Even the bread basket is successful, with
an assortment of slices and shapes and flavors
- all very good.
 You
absolutely cannot leave without sampling
the impossibly delicate White Chocolate
Butter Bars, a recipe from Chef Wolfe's
mother Ellie, served with raspberry coulis
and homemade vanilla ice cream.
For all the pristine ingredients and obvious
flair that goes into every dish, prices
are completely reasonable, with dinner entrees
ranging from $17-$24 and appetizers hovering
in the $8-$10 range. The wine list is focused
and offers a tight range of selections from
a variety of wine regions, including strong
showings from France and California.
Reservations are practically a must, with
virtually every evening booked solid with
jovial, well-fed, appreciative customers.
Wolfe's of New Orleans
7224 Pontchartrain Boulevard
New Orleans
Tel: 504-284-6004
www.wolfesofneworleans.com
february 2004
|
