The WineSellar is a combo
wine store and restaurant, with the retail
inventory supplying the restaurant’s
wine list. And what a wine list. Fifty
or so pages, with some… oh, I don’t
even know how many bottles. Extensive
vertical selections of first growth Bordeaux
(all of them!) and California Cabernet
Sauvignon from producers like Caymus,
Chateau Montelena, Diamond Creek, Dunn,
Heitz, Inglenook, Mayacamas, Silver Oak,
and many more. Opus One? You bet. Cain
Five? Of course. Not to mention Turley
Zins, Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
and so many more. And for those of us
more interested in more offbeat selections,
the choices really get fun. Wonderfully
priced bottles from every conceivable
wine region, at just about any price point.
The mark-ups here are a little high, averaging
around three times retail, hard to swallow
considering that the retail store takes
away all the usual restaurant justifications
for high wine prices. But in any case,
the food was good and the wine selection
was, as mentioned, extensive.
Our starters included delicate
but flavorful Yellowfin Tuna Tartare,
garnished with lemon, capers and a sprinkling
of herbs, and the house specialty Gazpacho
featuring lobster and silky avocado cream.
We were intrigued by sparkling wines from
Oregon’s Flynn Cellars – older
vintages priced at a "why not?"
$21. But we ended up going with a white
Bordeaux from Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion
that was delicious.
Entrées included more of
the yellowin tuna, this time grilled alongside
asparagus and mushrooms and drizzled with
a heady truffle vinaigrette. Outstanding
roasted veal was perfectly prepared –
moist and tender – and complemented
with a delicate baby artichoke and shiitake
ragoût, sweet Cippollini onions and rosemary
jus. A Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Starr
winery, not often seen outside the Northwest,
was just right.
Chef Scott Diehl’s
contemporary French menu changes seasonally
and features an emphasis on fresh herbs
and high quality produce. Seasonal tasting
menu, Saturday brunch, and Sunday wine
tastings round out the offerings. (08/02)
Starters $8-21
Entrees $28-38
9550 Waples Street
San Diego, California 92121
Tel: 858.450.6336
Web: www.winesellarandbrasserie.com
