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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review - Universal Cafe, San Francisco, CA

This petite Mission café is small on space but big on mouthwatering dishes inspired by cuisine from around the world. From the salad of mixed organic greens with Gorgonzola and candied walnuts, to the warm gingerbread dessert, ingredients are ultra fresh and creatively combined. There is a grilled flatbread appetizer with toppings that change daily. We sampled a luscious combination of caramelized onions, anchovy, olive tapenade, and arugula. The sweet taste and silky texture of the onions combined perfectly with the salty anchovies and olives, the bite of the arugula, and the crunch of the flatbread. Perfect.

Entrées shone, starting with the roasted chicken with warm bread salad, roasted onions and broccoli rabe. I’ve always felt that roasted chicken is one of those good "measuring stick" dishes of a restaurant. A simple dish, but full of rustic soul and reflecting the personality and personal attention of the chef. This one was wonderful. Moist and flavorful, with a golden crispy skin. The bread salad transformed from just fine to incredibly good as it began to soak up the juices of the chicken and vegetables.

The pan seared beef tenderloin with French beans and gorgonzola mashed potatoes was flawlessly prepared and would meet any beef lover’s expectations. It was fun to see sand dabs on the menu, along with a madras curry and pasta dish featuring fresh rigatoni with sausage and tomato sauce. Universal cuisine, indeed!

Desserts you say? You betcha. In addition to the moist, fragrant gingerbread, there was a chocolate pudding cake with heavenly decadent caramel ice cream.

The wine list is small but every bit as thoughtful as the menu. We choose the Tablas Creek 1997 Tablas Rouge, but were mightily tempted by other bottles such as the Talley 1998 Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande and the Vieux Telegraphe 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Chef Peter Erickson’s menu changes daily, so visit often. We will. This is one of the best restaurants we’ve experienced in recent memory. (december 2000)

Entrées range from $14 to $24
Appetizers range from $6.50 to $11

Universal Café
2814 Nineteenth Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
415.821.4608

 

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