Restaurant
Review - Scala's Bistro, San Francisco
One rainy San Francisco evening included
a cozy supper at Scala's Bistro - geographically
just off Union Square, but emotionally much
closer to the heart of old world Paris.
Soaring ceilings, rich colors, original
elaborate plasterwork, gilt mirrors, and
crisp white linens create a comfortable,
stay a while, lived-in elegance.
After cocktails, we kicked off the meal
by sharing bistro style steamed mussels,
punctuated with aromatic garlic and herbs
and served with crispy frites and delicious
homemade mayonnaise flavored with freshly
cracked black pepper. No revelation here,
but satisfyingly classic. Our next course,
a generously sized Caesar salad was of a
piece - classic ingredients, fresh, tasty.
Our entrée course included feather
light, flavorful spinach gnocchi in a pool
of fresh tomato sauce and garnished generously
with fresh basil and buffalo mozzarella.
Summer on a plate, if you ask me, and delicious
to the last bite.
Roasted monkfish is one of those restaurant
challenges - all too often overcooked and
chewy. Scala's version was admirable in
flavor and texture, tender and sweet, and
served with an earthy diced artichoke salsa
and roasted potatoes.
What the wine list may lack in creativity,
it makes up for in accessibility and pricing.
A bottle of Alsace Pinot Gris was followed
by a bottle of Barbera d Asti - both reasonably
priced and nice companions to the cuisine.
A dessert tasting assortment was a sweet,
fun way to end the evening, with an array
of bites and bars and cookies.
All in all, Scala's Bistro is a welcome
refuge for well-executed, classic Bistro
dishes in a grand but comfortable setting.
It's easy to understand why the couple at
the next table confided that it took their
combined will power and determination to
break away from their twice-a-week Scala's
habit and explore other restaurants! (aug
2004)
432 Powell Street
San Francisco, CA
415-395-8555
www.scalasbistro.com
Starters $7-12
Entrees $12-21
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