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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review - Rome & Venice

On our recent wine and food blitz of Italy, we hit quite a few great restaurants in these two fantastic cities. Here's the skinny:

ROME:

Terrace Restaurant at the Hotel Forum. A great choice for dinner, since there is a rooftop restaurant with views facing the Forum. Lit up at night, it’s beautiful! On the elegant and pricey side.

Nino’s – Via Borgognona 11, phone 06-679-5676. Still very good after all these years – even if it has gotten more touristy. Don't miss the curry chicken, unusual dish for Rome, but very good!

Capranica Enoteca e Taverna, Piazza Capranica 104, tel: 06-67 90 860. This is a little wine bar and restaurant that we happened upon for lunch one day. Noticed locals dining on the patio and took that as a good sign. We liked it so much, we went back the next night for dinner.  Great wine list. Excellent food. Don't miss the mussels starter (big heaping bowl full in wonderful broth), the pizza, or the lamb. 

Di Rienzo, Pantheon. This is my favorite café at the Pantheon. The food is good (if not great) – even for a tourist spot, but mainly it’s the location/view/etc. that makes me love it! The perfect place to sip (okay, gulp) large quantities of Frascati for hours on end.

VENICE:

Osteria Enoteca San Marco, Frezzeria 1610, tel: 041 5285242. Another "just stumbled upon" place for us. It was raining harder. It was lunchtime. This was the first doorway we ducked into. Apparently newly opened, and quite attractive. Really tasty food, featuring several Venetian specialties. We ordered the baccalá, a Venetian specialty – sort of a fish dip made with cod and cream. Sounds odd, but really good. Good wine list, too! (They do take reservations, though we were able to just walk in for lunch.)

Hostaria Masaniello San Marco, Campo San Stefano 2801, tel: 041.5209003 – Owned by the same people who own Acqua Pazza (below). I had one of the best fish dishes of my life here. Naturally, it was off the menu. Some special Sicilian (I think) fish that was steamed and served with mint.

Acqua Pazza San Marco, Campo Sant’Angelo 3808, tel: 041 2770688 – Huge and really good pizzas. Also a wonderful Insalata Caprese (with the buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil), easily enough for 2 or more people. Everything around us looked good, too! Don't miss the house-made Limoncello, but skip dessert. The service is a little brusque, but not really rude. (Reservations are a good idea here!)

Ristorante al Graspo de Ua San Marco, Rialto Calle dei Bombaseri 5094/A, tel: 041.5200150 – Our hotel recommended this place for great fish, and they were right. It’s the restaurant of a hotel, near the Rialto. Here’s the website (http://www.graspodeua.com/) Not the easiest place to find, but worth it! There are signs to it, so keep looking for them! A little pricey, but again -- worth it! And filled with important-seeming locals, whoever they were. The service was so nice, and the meal was incredible. Great risotto, wine list, fish and more fish. And great desserts, too, if you’re in the mood! We had this layered meringue mousse cake that was incredible.

(august 2002)

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