Restaurant
Review: New Orleans Grill
A recent weekend in New Orleans included
a luxurious dinner at The New Orleans Grill
at the Windsor Court Hotel. Recently refashioned
from The Grill Room, The New Orleans Grill
and Executive Chef Jonathan Wright
serve contemporary European cuisine with
a Louisiana accent.
 The
dining room strikes an admirable balance
of elegance and comfort, with polished
marble flooring, plush cozy banquettes,
all bathed in warm gold and coral light.
A trio of impressive murals now adorn the
walls of the room, colorfully capturing
classic New Orleans scenes in European style.
The impressive wine list covers more than
1000 wines, with a heavy emphasis on France
and California. There are plenty of jaw-dropping
wines on the list, including first growth
Bordeaux and collector Cabernets.
All the better, since Chef Wright's spectacular
cuisine deserves special wines. Chef Wright's
resume reads like a who's who of hot spots
around the world, including time at the
Raffles Hotel in Singapore, Michelin 2-starred
Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons (a famed country
hotel in Oxford, England), as well as his
own Oxford restaurant, La Gousse D'ail.
Throughout his career, and particularly
at Le Manoir, which has long been a champion
of organic and locally grown foods, Wright
has spotlighted the local grower. His offerings
at The New Orleans Grill are testament to
long hours and diligent efforts acquiring
the best of local herbs, seafood, meats
and vegetables.
 The
menu changes often and includes a multi-course
Chef's Tasting menu. A recent menu included
Crisp Roasted and Confit Duck - impossibly
tender and flavorful, and served with a
shallot "tart tatin," seared foie
grs, smoked sweet potato, Louisiana peaches,
and jasmine scented sauce. Get the idea?
Then there was the Roasted Loin and
Slow-Cooked Shin of Lamb appeared with
caramelized sweetbreads, lemon confit, creamed
flageolet beans, and jus Niçoise.
All had wonderful flavor, and the contrast
of textures and temperatures was entirely
pleasing.
A starter of Porcini and Spinach Ravioli
with soft poached quail egg and rosemary
jus was perfect - light, flavorful, tender,
comforting.
As if all this weren't spectacular enough,
The New Orleans Grill recently added one
of the nation's top pastry chefs to its
team. Keegan Gerhard has long been
a Wine Skinny favorite (we first discovered
the addictive joys of his desserts at a
wine and food festival several years ago).
In Gerhard's creations, the restaurant extends
its aura of refined elegance with exquisite
versions of classic desserts.
Ultimately, The New Orleans Grill, with
all its visual updating and spectacular
culinary team, is the a delicious and elegant
escape from the hustle and bustle of the
French Quarter. Settle into one of those
comfy banquets, order beautiful bottle of
wine and the Chef's tasting menu. Sit back,
relax, and let the courses and flavors start
coming. You may never want to leave!
Windsor Court Hotel
300 Gravier Street
Tel: 504-523-6000
www.windsorcourthotel.com
Starters $8-$18
Entrees $32-$38
Tasting Menu $75
february 2004
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