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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review: Masraff's, Houston

Masraff's has been dishing up high end Euro-American cuisine since its opening in 1999, and has quietly established itself as one of Houston's best restaurants. Co-owners Russell Masraff and father Tony have eschewed fanfare and splashy PR stunts in favor of the highest quality ingredients and a dedication to creating a welcoming, attentive atmosphere for their customers.

Masraff's serves exclusively fresh, never frozen, line-caught wild fish - and it shows in many of their signature dishes. Diver scallops are seared and caramelized and nestled atop a mound of white truffle-scented polenta. Succulent pan seared Chilean sea bass arrives on a bed of creamy shrimp and leek orzo pasta. Gulf red snapper (pictured, right) is balanced on delicious saffron potato fondant and buttery corn and shitake mushrooms with a lemon beurre blanc. Needless to say, daily fish specials are always good bets.

On the rare occasions that we can pull ourselves away from the fish, dishes like a wild mushroom ravioli starter, a darn good Caesar salad, Muscovy duck breast with grape, prune and rhubarb compote, and mint and dijon-crusted rack of lamb with sweet potato gratin are enough to keep us more than satisfied. In all cases, Masraff's goes all out with rich sauces, pristine vegetables and lovely presentations.

The wine list is full of upper tier choices at reasonable-ish prices, including a nice selection of Chablis that work beautifully with the various fish dishes. We also like the Pinot Noir offerings, with wines from California, Oregon and France.

We heartily recommend desserts here (something we don't do lightly, given our proclivity for post-meal cheese and yet more wine!). Try ordering a few for the table and watch the greedy feeding frenzy begin! Our favorite has to be the perfectly crisp meringues with vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries, but the delicate bread pudding is also a winner, along with mouthwatering key lime mousse, an apple tart boasting tons of thinly sliced Granny Smiths, and the melt in your mouth bittersweet chocolate fondant with crème anglaise.

The main dining room is warm and comfortable, with cushy upholstered chairs, soft lighting and a gracious staff. And Masraff's recently debuted a landscaped patio off the bar that is a great spot for gathering before dinner - or just sipping and nibbling an afternoon away.

Masraff's on Post Oak Lane
1025 S. Post Oak Lane
(between San Felipe and Woodway)
Houston, TX 77056
Phone - (713) 355-1975
Web: www.masraffs.com

(feb 2007)

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