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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review - Indian food in London

Our annual visits to London are often centered on sampling the outstanding Indian cuisine that the city is known for. Despite the new and exciting restaurants that have popped up over the last few years and elevated the notoriously dismal restaurant scene, we still have to include at least one Indian feast during our time in the city. As an added benefit, Indian restaurants often offer a welcome retreat into more reasonable tabs from London's exorbitantly high prices. 

On our last visit, we checked out three spots:

The Cinnamon Club
The Cinnamon Club is housed in the ground and basement levels of an historic library building near Westminster Abbey. The clean, elegant, serene interior includes restored parque flooring, handpicked art pieces, and imported Indian marble and stone.

The menu tantalizes with dishes like the Zucchini flower stuffed with corn and mint appetizer, and entrees like seared duck breast with sesame tamarind sauce, grilled wild prawns with coconut and mustard sauce, and seared calves liver with tangy potatoes and spiced onions.

After much dithering, we settled on two appetizers – smoked lamb kebabs which were beautifully seasoned and prepared to tender perfection, and rabbit loin stuffed with cottage cheese and dried fruits. Both dishes, especially the rabbit, were artistically presented and delicious.

More dithering, and then entrée selections. Rogan Josh lamb was deeply colored and just spicy enough, with tender chunks of lamb and served with a tasty rice pilaf. For a vegetarian choice, we sampled the delicious baby eggplant in a finger-licking-good peanut sauce spiked with fresh mint.

The fun and adventurous wine list is short, too the point, and carefully selected. Prices entirely reasonable. Service was friendly and efficient.

All in all, Cinnamon Club was a hit with us. Prices are moderate to high, with appetizers running $8-13, and entrees $16-37.

The Cinnamon Club
The Old Westminster Library
Great Smith Street
London SW1P 3BU
020 7222 2555
www.cinnamonclub.com

Mela
Bright, attractive, friendly, colorful – Mela was a welcome breath of fresh air on a dreary London winter day. Located off Charing Cross Road in the West End, Mela offers authentic Indian food at prices that are so reasonable, especially given the location, that we found ourselves wondering why we would bother going anywhere else.

We were there for lunch and so had the opportunity to sample the Indian-styled sandwich selection. You get to choose your bread and filling – they end up very much like a panini, but with Indian flavorings. The mixed vegetables in the Roomali flatbread were terrific and jazzed up with mint and cilantro chutney.

Savory chicken samosas were perfectly cooked, hot and tasty and made a perfect appetite-enhancing starter.

We then moved on to entrees, including super-tender chicken kabobs (Murg Khasta) that had been marinated in heady spices and yogurt and then roasted in the tandoori oven. Tawe ki Bathak was perfectly cooked duck breast with coconut, cilantro and cumin, and garnished with fresh mint. It was slightly spicy, but not overly so – everything in this dish worked in perfect harmony.

We would go back to Mela anytime, and certainly plan to make it a regular stop on our annual trip to London. Service was friendly. Ingredients were fresh and of the highest quality. And at prices like this (most appetizers $6-9, most entrees $10-18), Mela shouldn’t be missed.

Mela
152-156 Shaftesbury Avenue
WC2H 8HL
Tel 020 7836 8635
www.melarestaurant.co.uk/

Zaika
Zaika is a great looking place. Recently opened at one end of Kensington High Street, the room is a contemporary palate of subtle, moody lighting, elegant neutral tones, and dashes of high impact color. The menu is a fusion of old and new styled Indian cuisine, with artful presentations. The food itself is hit and miss – at fairly high prices.

We were first served a basket of crispy flatbreads and an assortment of chutneys, some better than others. Next up, a trio of scallops appetizer was attractive and tasty – including sesame seed coated, spiced, and poached in coconut milk – a lovely way to begin the evening, especially when paired with a glass of bubbly from the New World influenced wine list.

The Zaika Platter starter is a sampling of dishes, the best of which were the succulent and nicely seasoned salmon kebabs. The chicken and duck rolls were fair, as were the samosas.

Entrees faired somewhat better, especially the Lamb Birani, served under a flaky crust, with delicious yogurty sauce. We could have, and should have, just ordered that. Crab Risotto was an uneasy fusion of spiced and roasted prawns, seared tuna, and crab meat risotto that left me cold.

The vegetable side dishes were outstanding – an assortment could make a perfectly good (and much less expensive) meal. Masala cumin potatoes were spicy and tender, with a slightly crispy edge.

Service was not too impressive. We waited a solid half hour for our first round of cocktails to appear – a wait made all the more lengthy by our full view of the not busy bartender arranging glasses rather than preparing our drinks. After a complaint to the manager (who apologized but conspicuously failed to offer the drinks on the house), service picked up a bit but was never particularly attentive.

I’d be open to going back, should the occasion arise, to enjoy the beautiful room and enjoy every last bite of the Lamb Birani and side veggies. And that’s about it.

Zaika
1 Kensington High Street
W8 6NP
020 7795 6533
www.zaika-restaurant.co.uk

 

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