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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review - La Reserve, Houston TX

(CLOSED) Dinner at La Reserve is like flying first class. Once you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to go back to anything else. In a town full of very good food, La Reserve stands above the crowd. Executive Chef Mercer Mohr has been at the helm since 1998, and frankly, things have never been better at this superb restaurant nestled in the lush surrounds of the Houston Omni Hotel.

The menu changes seasonally, and it is always a thoughtfully chosen list of perfectly executed dishes that celebrate the flavor and fresh ingredients of the season. The preparation is generally classic French with the addition of regional specialties, plenty of wild game, and then, best of all, those special Chef Mohr twists.

For starters, any dish that features quail and/or foie gras is going to be spectacular. Trust us – they always are. Not surprisingly, then, the Seared Quail & Foie Gras Terrine with Mango Essence appetizer is sublime – the quail is tender and flavorful, and the terrine is velvety and rich. Cognac and Lobster Bisque is a classic, with toasted pistachios, cognac and crème fraiche presented tableside.

Entrées this Spring include the wonderful Macadamia Crusted Roast Rack of Lamb served with röstí potatoes and rosemary lamb jus. This was so good, it was difficult for us to branch out. But we managed! And the Potato Wrapped Maine Lobster was well worth it. This is a whole lobster, mind you, encased in a crispy potato crust. The accompanying spinach, parsnip puree and lemon butter sauce were perfectly paired.

Be sure to try the seasonal Wine Tasting Menu, featuring an array of menu items specially matched with wines from La Reserve’s award winning collection. There are also three- and five-course vegetarian prix fixe menus with dishes like the Salad Tower that offers samples of three salads – all delicious.

In a word? Flawless. (april 2001)

Appetizers $8 to $18
Entrees $24 to $34 (plus a few "market" prices)

La Reserve
4 Riverway
Houston, TX 77056
713.871.8177

 

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