Restaurant
Review: La Mora Cucina Toscana, Houston
Houstonians are rediscovering a long-time
favorite in La Mora Cucina Toscana. This
cozy Tuscan retreat is tucked away near
one of the city's major crossroads (Westheimer
and Montrose), but exudes all the charm
of a Florence neighborhood favorite - and
with good reason. Lynette Mandola
must be one of Houston's favorite daughters,
judging by the warm accolades that pour
forth at the mere mention of her name. The
daughter of a petroleum engineer, Lynette
grew up in various parts of the world, including
stints in Florence and Rome. It was in Florence
that her enthusiasm for home cooking took
hold, learning alongside her mother from
Florentine neighbors, shopkeepers and a
young housekeeper. Lynette practiced the
rustic Tuscan style for many years, eventually
opening La Mora in 1990.
In a town replete with hot new dining spots,
La Mora remains an inviting beacon of
warmth and hospitality. Wonderful aromas
of long-simmering sauces and garlicky goodness
tantalize. Lynette greets long-time customers
by name. Diners and staff speak the familiar
shorthand with each other of oft-ordered
wines and specialties. La Mora is all about
food and friends and family and wine, like
any good Italian restaurant should be.
The wine list is pure pleasure -
mostly Italian, with some spectacular wines
at admirable prices. We have several obsessive
favorites on the menu, including the Salsiccia
di Pollo, a grilled homemade chicken
sausage starter that is comfort food at
its finest. Decadent and irresistible gnocchi
in a gorgonzola cream sauce is studded
with prosciutto and radicchio - a fabulous
contrast in textures, with the light-as-a-feather
gnocchi against the silky, mouth coating
sauce. Perfectly prepared grilled red snapper
is topped with a piquant caper, sundried
tomato, garlic and white wine sauce. Pollo
ai Peperoni is a rustic roasted
half chicken with loads of garlicky hot
pepper kick. And whatever you order, be
sure to include a side of Lynette's Tuscan
beans for instant culinary transport to
the Florence countryside.
This June, La Mora branches out to celebrate
the sunny flavors of Sicily with a special
four-course dinner. Here's the scoop:
Antipasto: Tonno alle Erbe Aromatiche con
Insalata di Arance e Finocchio
Fresh tuna marinated in fresh herbs, vinegar,
lemon and extra virgin olive oil served
with a salad of oranges and fresh fennel
Il Primo: Couscous alla Trapanese (couscous
in the style of Trapani)
Spicy seafood broth with couscous and fresh
seafood
Il Secondo: (Entrée) Choice of Salsiccini
alla Siciliana
Veal scaloppine (stuffed with a mixture
of salami, caciocavallo cheese, breadcrumbs,
herbs and garlic) lightly coated in seasoned
breadcrumbs and skewered with onions and
bay leaf, grilled and served over mixed
lettuce greens and Sicilian olives
- or -
Braciole di Pesce Spada con Salmoriglio
Grilled swordfish rolls stuffed with fontina
cheese, garlic, basil, pinenuts, currants,
and onions topped with a vinaigrette of
fresh herbs, red wine vinegar, lemon juice
and extra virgin olive oil
Il Dolce: Cassata alla Siciliana
Sponge cake layered with strega and rum
spiked ricotta cheese with candied fruit
and chocolate
I Vini: (includes 2 6-ounce glasses of
premium Sicilian wines and a 2-ounce dessert
wine)
White: Regaleali "Nozze d'Oro"
Red: Cadetto, Tenuta La Lumia
Dessert Wine: Malvasia delle Lipari, Caravaglio
$40 for the food only menu, and $55 for
the food and wine menu. Price does not include
tax or gratuity. The Juno Sicily Dinner
will be available through out the month
of June. For reservations please call 713-522-7412.
(june 2004)
912 Lovett Boulevard
Houston, TX 77006
Tel: 713.522.7412
Starters: $4-10
Entrees: $13-40
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