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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review: La Duni, Dallas

A recent weekend in Dallas included brunch at a darling bakery café, where the muffins are addictive, the egg dishes decadent, and the Bellinis made with Mandarin orange juice puree.

La Duni Latin Kitchen & Baking Studio has a couple of locations. We spent Saturday morning at the Oak Lawn spot, where we nibbled on the complementary muffin basket - carefully splitting the different flavors so everyone could taste the assortment.

Brunch cocktails, once they arrived, were spot on. The La Duni Mimosa ($6.25) is vibrant and tasty, with "Ruby" sparkling wine and freshly pressed orange juice. Their Mojito ($7.75) was fresh and minty, with just the right proportions of rum and lime. And the Duni Pomelo Toronjada, a mouthful to pronounce and sip at $7.75, was a delicious concoction of Gray Goose vodka, lime, grapefruit juice, cane sugar and a splash of soda - it went down dangerously easily!

As for those egg dishes, Huevos Finos was a bit more miss than hit, with slightly dry popovers topped with ham and poached eggs, Gruyere cheese and hollandaise. Too many rich flavors needed some balance, but it was still good picking, along with the spicy roasted potatoes that came alongside.

On the better side was a gorgeous omelette, made to order and bulging with fresh ingredients that can include goat cheese, spinach, black beans, Argentinean sausage, serrano peppers and more. Migas come with bacon and four cheeses, with a choice of red or green sauce and those kicky roasted potatoes. We have our eye on the Breakfast Tacos for our next visit!

Lunch and dinner brings plenty of South American inspired beef dishes, like the chimichurri-marinated beef Asado and an Argentinean Grill for two that includes prime ribeye, skirt steak, pork tenderloin and grilled sausage.

An array of melt in your mouth sandwiches are a sure bet, from the slow-roasted pork loin to the Choripan (grilled sausage with greens, avocado, chimichurri and manchego). Bread choices include Peruvian pan de yema that is light and tender - and do try the extra-fluffy yucca fries!

Service was quirky-friendly, if not altogether professional, but that was part of the charm. The wine list is exclusively South American, with great prices on Malbecs and more.

Sweet tooth heaven starts with a Nutella Milk Chocolate Cake - thin layers of vanilla cake frosted with caramelized roasted hazelnut milk chocolate truffle and served with espresso white chocolate ganache sauce. ('Nuff said?) Then how about the Warm Milk Chocolate Cake Pudding? It's vanilla cake baked in milk chocolate custard and served with vanilla bean ice cream, homemade chocolate syrup, rich caramel, raspberry sauce and candied pecans.

We've officially begun a petition for La Duni to open a Houston location. Let them hear from you! (dec 2005)

La Duni Latin Kitchen & Baking Studio
4264 Oak Lawn
Highland Park, TX 75219
214.520.6888

La Duni Latin Cafe
4620 McKinney Avenue
Dallas, TX 75205
214.520.7300

www.laduni.com

 

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