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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review -
Restaurant Jean-Louis, Greenwich, CT

We had heard about Restaurant Jean-Louis for years by the time we finally visited this little gem in Greenwich, Connecticut. "Jean-Louis" is Jean-Louis Gerin, chef-owner-charming host. And the restaurant is everything we’d always heard it was – sophisticated, elegant, wonderful.

The best way to experience Jean-Louis’ Nouvelle Classique cuisine is with the menu degustation, a five-course tasting menu that changes daily. And as we’ve mentioned before, we’ve become pretty tough to please on tasting menus. This one is how it should be done. Courses are sized exactly right – not too much, not too little, each course is flavorful and fresh, and the menu is balanced so that the flavors evolve and build to delicious finales.

A recent menu included:
Foie gras terrine on double oxtail consommé mirroir

Filet of rouget with roasted cucumber and asparagus, and green pea coulis

Breast of Canadian farm raised chicken with fresh truffle

Pan seared ostrich medallion with quince and plantain and citrus emulsion

Choice of dessert

And speaking of desserts… whatever else you do, be sure to have dessert. They follow the same paradoxical formula as the food – light but complex, concentrated flavors without heaviness, combining originality with classic presentation. Chocolate is well-represented, from an almond cookie layered with intense chocolate ganache and praline cream, to a best-ever dark chocolate mousse. Also the "super thin" warm green apple tart and classic crème brulee.

The wine list is every bit as impressive as the menu, offering over 500 selections and garnering awards from near and far. The list emphasizes France and California wines, particularly Bordeaux, Rhone Valley reds, and California Cabernets. (october 2002)

Starters $17-29
Entrées $38-41
Desserts $10.50
Tasting menu $68 per person
Dessert tasting menu $11-12 per person

Restaurant Jean-Louis
61 Lewis Street
Greenwich, CT 06830
Tel: 203.622.8450
Web: www.restaurantjeanlouis.com

 

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