Restaurant
Review: Il Gattopardo, New York, NY
The next time you're in midtown Manhattan
and a craving for authentic, unpretentious
Italian food hits (the kind of craving inspired
by movies like Big Night), look no farther
than the delicious offerings at Il Gattopardo.
The sliver of a dining room, with white
table cloths and an ivy-draped garden, is
tucked into the ground floor of a townhouse.
Salerno-born chef Vito Gnazzo serves Neapolitan
and other southern Italian specialties that
can only be described as comfort food -
but with an upscale twist that makes them
seem equal parts contemporary and home-cooking
familiar.
The cabbage-wrapped meatballs are
well loved and rightly so. Ethereally light,
juicy and rich, they are a mix of veal and
beef and wrapped in a translucent sheet
of cabbage. Gnazzo serves them as a starter
over greens and with an aromatic thyme-white-wine
sauce. No visit to Il Gattopardo should
be without at least one order. (They come
three to an order, perfect for two people
who don't mind a minor squabble over last
one!)
The eggplant and buffalo ricotta cakes
are a standout vegetarian starter, as was
the ravioli with wild mushrooms and provola
cheese in a fresh tomato sauce.
For the main course, it's hard to resist
the Neapolitan meat loaf, encasing
hard-boiled eggs and served with chive mashed
potatoes and spinach. Really lovely and
flavorful, especially when paired with one
of the Sicilian Nero d'Avola wines from
the appealing all-Italian wine list.
Or go a bit lighter with any of the fish
dishes, which really seem to shine here.
We particularly liked a baked codfish
"gratin" dish flecked with black
olives, capers and tomatoes.
Service is efficient and courteous, with
nary a speck of attitude or over-friendliness
in sight. It's the kind of place you want
to linger over dessert (yes, even after
the meatballs and meatloaf…). Try the
lemon tart!
Il Gattopardo
33 W. 54th St., New York, NY 10019
between Fifth and Sixth Aves.
212-246-0412
www.ilgattopardonyc.com
Starters $9-$14
Main Courses $18-$32
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