(CLOSED)
Chef/owner Cedric Guerin opened Guerin’s
Cellar in late 2002 in the former digs
of Chez Georges, a landmark West Houston
French restaurant that had a long-time
following for its first rate food and
neighborhood feel. If recent visits to
Guerin’s Cellar are any indication,
Guerin has not missed a beat in picking
up a loyal clientele cozying up to
the superb classic Continental cuisine.
This is the kind of place
locals go on a Friday night, after a long
work week, for a relaxing, leisurely meal.
On both visits, the tables were nearly
all full of contented diners; and although
tables surely turned during the evening,
we didn’t notice it. This isn’t
the sort of place to people watch or be
hustled through your meal. It’s more
about having a favorite table, content
in the knowledge that Guerin knows which
wine you like, and just enough buzz in
the room so that you don’t feel you
have to whisper – it’s the kind
of place we wish were in our neighborhood.
Fresh-from-the-oven savory
little pastries were presented as an amuse-bouche,
and we knew things were going to go well
here. Hot and flaky, some were filled
with an oniony anchovy mix, and some with
a goat cheese mixture. Perfect nibbling
with a glass of bubbly while we unwound
and contemplated the menu.
Filled with standards
like lobster bisque, escargots, chateaubriand,
tournedos and lobster tail, dover sole,
and steak tartar – the menu held
classic promise. The wine list is slightly
challenging, with pricey Bordeaux &
Burgundy being the main themes. There
are a few California selections, but some
of the markups were just silly. So we
did what we often do in these cases –
headed for the Rhone Valley section. A
bottle of 1999 Chateau de la Gardine Chateauneuf-du-Pape
caught our eye at $85 (retails around
$40), and we were happily sipping in no
time.
We began with the bisque
and escargot starters. Chunks of lobster
in a pink, creamy base with a spicy kick
– the bisque was delicious. The escargots
arrived in a mound between a split puff
pastry shell. They weren’t our favorite
thing – either because they were
slightly overcooked, or because we tend
to prefer the simpler version that is
baked in the special escargot dish and
swimming in bread-dipping garlicky oil.
On another occasion, we very much enjoyed
the sparkling fresh marinated salmon starter,
spiked with fresh dill and lime juice.
Entrees sampled included
picture-perfect rack of lamb, seasoned
with honey and rosemary. A generous serving
of delectable, cooked to order lamb chops
were accompanied by an array of sides,
including rich potatoes and tender baby
veggies. Fork-tender veal tenderloin is
served with bacon-wrapped jumbo shrimp.
And an off-the-menu "Blue Tender"
was one of the best dishes we’ve
had lately. A center cut filet mignon
stuffed with blue cheese, cooked just
right, and served with a brandy-spiked
veal reduction sauce, it was outstanding
– ask for it! (And see recipe, below.)
Continuing the classic dish
theme, Baked Alaska appears as a dessert
choice – and we couldn’t resist.
Complete with table-side flaming, the
dessert has always been more flare than
flavor, but Guerin’s version was
actually pretty tasty.
If you’re in the area
or just in need of a leisurely elegant
meal – head to Guerin’s Cellar
for classic European cuisine, attentive
service, and a cozy neighborhood setting.
(may 2003)
11920 Westheimer
Houston, TX 77077
Tel: 281.558.5095
Starters $5-19
Entrees $25-36
For one serving:
6 oz. center cut filet mignon
4 oz. good quality blue cheese
8 oz. veal stock
2 oz. Brandy
Freshly ground black pepper and salt to
taste
1. Make a pocket with a
small sharp knife on one side of the filet
mignon; do not cut all the way through.
2. Stuff the steak with
the blue cheese. Grill to your liking.
3. Meanwhile, in a stock
pot, reduce the veal stock by half. Then
add Brandy, salt and pepper – boil
for four more minutes.
4. Drizzle sauce on and
around steak and serve.
