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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review: Grille 5115, Houston

I recently had a near perfect meal at Grille 5115.

It started with their Traditional Caesar Salad ($6.25), a simple creation of crisp, tender, baby romaine, topped with shaved Parmesan and a very good dressing – not too creamy, not too oily, just enough oomph. A wine that turned my following week into an obsessive, and eventually successful, scavenger hunt accompanied this first course. The 1996 Frogs Leap Zinfandel. Rich and smooth-spicy, with incredible prune and vanilla flavors, it was a highlight. Good luck finding any, but if you do, buy all you see.

Anyway, the main course was an off the menu pecan crusted lamb chops in a perfect reduction sauce, served with garlicky mashed potatoes and a mix of carrots and green beans. ($19) Heaven. The lamb chops were so thick and tender, you would not believe it. And with the Frogs Leap… well, my dining companion and I were emitting embarrassingly loud moans of ecstasy. Embarrassing to the people around us. We were oblivious as we polished off every last bite.

An outstanding apple spice cake, served a la mode topped off the fabulous meal. Rich, not too sweet, and with just the right amount of the cinnamon, nutmeg, clove combo, it was perfect with good strong coffee. The dessert tray itself is a little miracle. It's hard to believe they can get that many desserts onto one tray. It's overwhelming.

Other favorites, sampled over several evenings: Corn chowder with roasted corn and crab salsa ($5). Chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes in ancho chile cream and red wine sauce ($16). BBQ glazed wild salmon filet over roasted corn and black bean salsa with jumbo shrimp ($20). Additionally, we tried some off the menu pork chops, as well as a seared tuna steak. Both were outstanding.

The room is soothing and sleek. A neutral palate of white and gray and warm lighting contributes to the glamorous serenity of the place, with tables mercifully spaced to allow for private conversation. Grille 5115 is owned by Bruce Molzan, who started with Ruggles (a long time Houston favorite) and is quickly taking over the entire city restaurant scene.

The wine list is heavy on California choices and fairly reasonably priced, given that the mark-ups are closer to twice rather than three times the retail price. I find myself wishing there were more selections under $30, but the select list does beautifully match the style of the food. Sadly, I know they are sold out of the 1996 Frogs Leap (did I mention it became an obsession?), but there are plenty of other excellent California choices of all varietals.

Grille 5115 is the perfect choice for an excellent dinner (avoid lunch -- too many ladies who shop can make it a little intense) in a beautiful setting. They even take reservations -- how refreshing! I know the memory of that perfect meal will pull me back many times. (october 1999)

Grille 5115
5115 Westheimer
(Westheimer at Post Oak)
Houston, TX
(713) 963-8067

Hours
Monday - Thursday: 11am - 10pm
Friday, Saturday: 11am - 11pm
Closed Sundays

 

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