Restaurant
Review: Grille 29, Tampa
All shiny and eye candy, with good looking
people lingering over good looking plates
of grilled meats and glistening sauces,
Grille 29 is still riding its 2004 opening
buzz. We settled into a cushy booth and
kicked things off with Mumm Napa Brut paired
with a couple of starters. The Lobster Quesadilla
(something we think usually doesn't work)
was quite tasty, with big chunks of lobster
encased in fresh tortillas, a judicious
amount of Swiss cheese, and a double-your-pleasure
lobster dipping sauce. Crusted Ahi Tuna
was seared just so and served with drizzles
of wasabi and a citrus ginger sauce. Perfect
with bubbly. The slightly bland beefsteak
tomato and mozzarella salad was helped along
with a balsamic syrup.
Moving on to the main thing, we thought
the Portobello and Polenta Napoleon was
fresh and nicely seasoned - a good vegetarian
option. Our favorite seafood option were
the crab-stuffed scallops, topped with shallots
and herbs and supported by a "tower"
of lobster mashed potatoes. Comfort
food heaven!
But the real draw here are the grilled
meats. Good quality and grilled to order
- our 8 oz. filet was suitably "black
and blue" - seared and crispy on the
edges, meltingly rare inside. The mustard-crusted
rack of lamb was similarly prepared as ordered
and delicious, with all its mustardy
bread crumb coating and port reduction
sauce. Sides include macaroni and cheese
(that could happily work as an entrée
pasta alongside a salad!), creamed spinach,
and steamed asparagus.
The wine list is a one-pager, with some
sixty selections. It is easy to navigate
and reasonably priced. Bottles like Sokol
Blosser's Evolution No. 9, Green Point Shiraz,
and Treana Red liven up the mostly "usual"
wines. But what the wine list lacks
in imagination, it makes up for in ease
and price. And it matches the mood of the
place - a no-brainer, hangout with relaxed,
competent service and reliable food in a
classy atmosphere.
Whether you're lingering in the dining,
kicking back on the waterfront patio, or
following the big game on the bar flatscreen
TVs, Grille 29 is an upscale neighborhood
spot worth choosing.
Grille 29
615 Channelside Drive
Tampa, FL
(813) 221-2929.
www.grille29.com
(april 2005)
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