Restaurant Review: Fiamma Osteria, New York City

The menu at Fiamma offers a wide range of choices, from meats to seafood and beyond, but it's the pasta that brings me back. This is one of those increasingly rare places where you can get delicious, soul-satisfying pasta dishes made to order and served piping hot from the kitchen. Add a green salad and a bottle of wine, and I'm in heaven.

Part of the B.R. Guest group that includes Blue Water Grill, Isabella's and several others, Fiamma is all sophisticated, sleek Italian without being overly stark or modern. The two-story SoHo townhouse maintains a cozy, intimate feel that practically begs first-time customers to become regulars in no time at all.

On those rare moments we've managed to tear ourselves away from the pasta, we have enjoyed a few other starters and entrees. A striped bass sautéed and served with earthy baby Brussels sprouts, fava beans and fennel made a light and delicious main course. On the heartier end of things, the veal chop was enormous, and the rich flavors perfectly accented with caramelized cipollini onions and heady sage.

A favorite starter is the grilled octopus, served with a sort of tapenade and ceci beans, with a kick of red pepper.

But back to the pasta. The Garganelli with prosciutto and a flavorful cream sauce is the stuff of dreams. As is the Bolognese made with meltingly tender rabbit, topping spinach pasta in a thick Parmesan sauce. Again I say heavenly.

The wine list is extensive and on the expensive side, but there are some good choices under $50. If budget allows, though, go ahead and splurge on the pricier stuff. This food is worth it! (february 2005)

Fiamma Osteria
206 Spring St.
New York, NY
212-653-0100