Chicago is surely best known
for its legendary steaks, but we’ve
recently explored some of the French cuisine
options in this foodie-heaven city. Here
are two that we particularly liked:
If we had to pick just one type of restaurant
to frequent exclusively from now on, it
would be the brasserie. To our mind, a
great brasserie is the best of all worlds.
Casual, but with flair. Classic, comforting
French dishes done simply with fresh,
seasonal ingredients. Food friendly wines.
Moderate prices. Just enough buzz and
clatter and bustle. Friendly, efficient
service. Steak frites. Cotes du Rhone.
Country pate. Aioli. Oysters on the half
shell. Fresh fish. Muscadet. Pots de crème.
Heaven.
Brasserie Jo can be added
to our ever-growing list of must-return
brasseries around the world. This one
has a decidedly Parisian vibe, with its
soaring ceilings, zinc bar and crisp white
tablecloths.
All of our favorites make
appearances on the menu – additional
standouts included a textbook escargot
starter, with searing hot garlicky oil
for dipping (why must we always burn out
mouths with the first bite??), and a stellar,
savory onion tart with a to-die-for flaky
pastry crust. The house salad of baby
greens and beets is fresh and light. On
the entrée level, the jaw-dropping choucroute
offers a huge platter of sausages and
smoked pork and potato and Alsatian sauerkraut
– easily enough for two. Perfectly
tender and flavorful sautéed skate wing
is in pungent brown butter and served
with mashed potatoes. And a ribeye steak
was cooked to order and served with a
textbook Bearnaise sauce. For dessert,
we sighed over a dish we usually decline
– light and creamy profiteroles with
vanilla ice cream and lavished with chocolate
sauce.
All-French wine list is
as much fun and as moderately priced as
the menu, and includes a wonderful Alsace
selection.
Chef/owner Jean Joho also
oversees the upscale Everest, but we love
Brasserie Jo best of all.
Inexpensive to moderate.
(june 2003)
59 W Hubbard St
Chicago, IL 60610-4603
Tel: 312.595.0800
http://www.brasseriejo.com/
Featuring an elegantly appointed dining
room with dark wood and plush banquettes,
Ambria offers a sophisticated, but not
stuffy, dining experience with welcoming,
attentive service and delicious food.
Starters were rich and hedonistic,
from classic French soups to escargots,
seared scallops, truffles and beyond.
Entrees are exquisitely executed and run
the gamut from fish to game birds to beef.
Desserts, too, are textbook French haute
cuisine – don’t miss the light
as air soufflés or the creamy crème brulee.
And although this is certainly top tier
French cooking, there is nothing pretentious
or outrageous about the dishes –
it is all approachable, understandable,
high quality, modern and (most importantly)
delectably tasty.
In addition to the a la
carte menu, Chef Gabino Sotelino offers
tempting degustation menus (including
a vegetarian version) as well as a chef’s
tasting menu that can keep an entire table
of diners in awe for hours.
Lovely wine list features
mostly French bottles, including some
fantastic Champagne and red Burgundy selections.
Upper moderate to expensive.
(june 2003)
2300 N Lincoln Park W
Chicago, IL 60614-3456
Tel: 773.472.5959
Fax: 773.472.9077
