Restaurant
Review: Charlie Trotter's, Chicago
There was a time that multiple-course menus
of artfully arranged and inventively prepared
food was a novelty. Something you couldn't
get much of anywhere. And it was exciting
- you'd never seen a foam sauce before.
Or a lamb chop that tiny with the bone scraped
pearly white. Layered caviar and avocado
mousse in a cordial glass seemed extraordinary.
Enjoying the endless parade of courses paired
with wines you'd never heard of was fascinating
and a one-of-a-kind experience.
Those days are well behind us, it seems.
These days, every chef who grows a touch
tired of the daily routine thinks he or
she can whip up a tasting menu worthy of
fetching the big bucks. Prix fixe menus
have become a tired march of unsatisfying
weirdness on a plate.
And we're pretty well sick of 'em.
Until an evening at Charlie Trotter's reminds
us of why this man is considered one of
the true, and few, real geniuses in the
kitchen.
One recent evening there, we reveled in
that night's Grand Tasting Menu, an artful
celebration of exquisitely prepared courses
that hit just the right notes. Portions
are perfect - not too dainty to enjoy, but
specifically sized to allow all the courses
to shine. A seared scallop was served with
a delicious sweet potato ravioli and drizzled
in a smoked bacon jus. Savory, satisfying
bites (about 4, by the way) with great texture
and taste. Nothing fussy the whole night.
Another course featured leek confit with
fennel and a local sheeps' milk cheese.
Just rich enough, quite satisfying, it left
us wanting just a touch more - the perfect
place to be when there are multiple courses
still on the way.
Charlie Trotter's is definitely one of
the very few places where we're happy to
leave the wine selection to the master.
Different wines - judicious pours, to be
sure, but not skimpy - arrived with each
course. From Tocai to Riesling to Pinot
Noir, we had a great time rating our favorites
and contemplating the food match.
This is a place to really revel in the
experience of a well-done tasting menu.
Where you can sit back and enjoy the ride,
letting the artistry wash over you in waves
of culinary pleasure. The room is relaxed
and quiet. Service is unobtrusive without
being snobby.
Charlie Trotter's is perfect for people
who want to splurge on a new dining experience
- and also for those, like us, who need
our faith renewed in a tasting menu. The
Grand Menu is $135 per person; adding wines
for each course is an additional $85 per
person. There is also a Vegetable Menu (which
looked awfully tempting, both on the page
and at the table next to us!) for $115 per
person. And the granddaddy Kitchen Tasting
Menu at $175 per person. (october 2005)
Charlie Trotter's
816 W Armitage Ave
Chicago, IL 60614-4308
(773) 248-6228
www.charlietrotters.com
|
