Restaurant
Review: Bricco, Boston
Sleek and new and modern,
Bricco offers upscale Italian fare in a
see-and-be-seen Hanover Street location.
Marisa Iocco (partner/chef) and Rita D'Angelo
(partner/manager) are a combined force to
be reckoned with in this sparkling restaurant
and wine bar, with D'Angelo charming the
crowds and Iocco producing plate after plate
of homemade pasta, seasonal produce, and
beautifully-prepared fish, birds and meat.
Back to that pasta for a moment
(though once tasted, you'll want to linger
longer). It is indeed house made. And fresh.
And delicious. Even staunch Atkins followers
and "bored with pasta" diners
should make an exception here. Some
of the richest Bolognese pasta dishes this
side of the Atlantic uses a combination
of ground pork, lamb and veal and should
not be missed. Pasta pillows stuffed with
Italian bufala ricotta is topped with tomato,
basil and olive oil - the picture of summer
lightness and flavor.
Wine is a big part of the
picture at Bricco - not only is the focused
list a pleasure to shop, but the restaurant
itself is enrobed in walls of wine. The
list is heavily weighted toward Italian
reds, with a nice variety of regions and
price ranges represented. We splurged on
a bottle of Masciarelli 1998 Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo Villa Gemma. Retailing for around
$60, Bricco had it for $80. A little breathing
time, and we had a fantastic, complex, spicy,
meaty, compelling wine. Diners wanting to
spend a fraction of that amount will be
perfectly happy with the equally well-priced
(and considerably less expensive) selection
of Dolcettos and Primitivos.
Among the dishes we sampled
were a savory mussel tart appetizer and
a Kobe beef ribeye, sprinkled with pistachios
and served with a cauliflower gratin.
Both outstanding and offering an enthusiastic
combination of flavors and textures. The
energy in this place is great. Service was
friendly and energetic. All in all, Bricco
was a hit with us - we'll be back!
241 Hanover Street
Boston, MA 02113
617-248-6800
www.bricco.com
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