Restaurant
Review: Bistro 1020, Cincinnati
All sleek lines, spare surfaces and cool
colors, Bistro 1020 achieves a hip, modern
Asian fusion flair without overdoing the
idea or being too self-serious. A sense
of play and self-effacing humor make a meal
at this new Cincinnati hotspot a pleasure.
The menu is more pan-Asian than fusion,
with classic Korean, Thai, Japanese and
Chinese offerings enlivened with lighthearted
twists. A wonderful selection of pre-meal
nibbles include a deliciously spicy fish
cake (one of those things you either love
or hate!), succulent tempura shrimp, and
an appealing array of sushi that ranges
from traditional to innovative. We particularly
enjoyed the fiery B1020 roll, a combo
of spicy tuna, salmon and snapper with cilantro
and smoky red Thai chili sauce. At this
point, a good quality Sake would have been
welcome, but we thoroughly enjoyed a
bottle of well-priced Giesen Sauvignon Blanc
instead.
Moving on to main courses, choices include
some terrific noodle dishes - carbs be damned.
The Miso Salmon with Soba Noodles is comfort
food Asian-style. And the Imperial Noodle
is a melange of flavors and textures, including
crispy-skinned duck, juicy shrimp,
slick orange honey sauce and crunchy noodles.
Addictive stuff.
There's also One Night in Bangkok - a Thai
chopped chicken entrée with sweet
basil. Korean style sliced beef with a rich
garlic-infused, sweet/hot sauce. The Asian
Lamb Stew is a Thai curry lover's dream,
with tender chunks of lamb slow-cooked in
a yellow curry - generous serving, plenty
of flavor and warmth - great cold weather
stuff.
We also enjoyed the abbreviated, well-priced
wine list. With just a handful of selections
in each category - from Crisp Whites to
Rich Whites to Bold Reds - it was easy to
pair bottles of Yalumba Unwooded Chardonnay
and Catena Malbec with our meal. The selections
are not overly original or eclectic, but
they mostly work with the menu and it's
easy to take the prices.
Service was in line with the mood of the
place - relaxed, fun and mostly efficient.
All in all, we think Bistro 1020 is a great
hangout spot. Great buzz. Great view - see
and be seen on the patio overlooking Mount
Lookout square or hang in the cool, comfortable
dining room. Sip the wine. Nibble the sushi.
Slurp the noodles. Have fun!
Bistro 1020
1020 Delta Ave.
Cincinnati, OH
Tel: (513) 871-2700
www.bistro1020.com
Appetizers $4-11
Entrees $12-18
(april 2005)
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