Let’s start with the
gougeres puffs. As should you.
These warm Gruyere cheese dough puffs
come by the basket. Order more than one.
Trust me. With cocktails or a crisp white
wine – there’s no better way
to kick off a meal at Artisanal, the New
York restaurant famous for its cheese
cellar.
But there are plenty of
non-cheese dishes to enjoy on the menu,
like the succulent oysters on the half
shell. A beet, endive, walnut and goat
cheese salad was just right. As was an
onion and Beaufort cheese tart. We’ve
sampled a couple of chicken dishes, a
"brick chicken" flattened version
that was moist inside and crispy outside.
And a paillard that was delicate and perfectly
cooked. We felt compelled to order fondue
on one occasion. We chose a white truffle
infused version, and it was delicious.
Artisanal has a brasserie
feel, with mostly bistro food. It’s
the kind of place we could happily visit
weekly, if not daily. Big deco light fixtures.
Casual tables. Brisk, buzzy atmosphere.
The wine list is mostly French and boasts
some 100 choices by the glass.
On one visit, a dining companion
had a sweet tooth and dug into an inventive
version of Tarte Tartin with cheddar cheese
in the crust. It was outstanding.
However you cannot (and
will not) skip the cheese course. In our
case, we routinely and happily skip sweets
in favor of cheese, so at Artisanal it
was a no-brainer. From the countless dozens
of cheese choices, it was a little overwhelming.
And to be honest, I’m not sure how
we ended up with the cheese selection
that arrived. It was an array of tastes,
served with fresh fruit and bits of sweet
fig cake and dates. Somewhere along the
way was a 6-year aged Gouda that
was unlike any Gouda we’d ever tried.
The crumbly crystals were almost Parmesan-like,
but with a creamier, smokier taste. We
officially have a new favorite cheese.
Not to mention a new favorite
midtown brasserie. (december 2002)
2 Park Ave (entrance on 32nd Street)
New York, NY 10016
Tel: 212.725.8585
