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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review: Amelia's Trattoria, Boston

When you're in the mood for a small, local hangout Italian spot, you could hardly improve on Amelia's Trattoria in Cambridge. The contemporary, simple décor adds a feeling of spaciousness where there really isn't any - a good thing when the dinner crowd descends and the wait for food grows. The cuisine is appropriately on the rustic, simple side of things. A practically perfect homemade spaghetti with tomato, basil and Parmesan was a reminder of how superior simple can be. Earthy mushroom risotto was equally comforting.

Chef Delio Susi Jr. also offers more complicated dishes, but they still come with a touch of homey comfort - nothing fussy here. Ingredients like braised rabbit, venison, and squid ink all make appearances on the seasonal menu with much success.

The wine list is sized to match the place, which is to say that it's small. But enough well-chosen bottles that match the food make picking (and drinking) a bottle of wine pretty simple.

Prices are reasonable all around, particularly when you consider the handmade effort that goes into every dish. Pastas are fresh and made in house. Sauces are slow-cooked. Everything tastes fresh and hot. Portions are generous. Don't remember anything on the menu being over $20.

If Cambridge were my neighborhood, you'd find me at Amelia's on at least a weekly basis.

Amelia's Trattoria
111 Harvard St.
Cambridge
617-868-7600

 

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