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April/May 2008

Restaurant Review: A Travessa, Lisbon

After two weeks of delicious seafood all over Portugal, our carnivorous instincts were skyrocketing and we were ready for some kind of roasted beast. Something that had four legs and had walked the earth at some point.

And we had heard great things about A Travessa, a restaurant located in a former convent somewhere in Lisbon. After one of those European taxi rides that included our very nice driver making some pretty impressive hairpin turns through incredibly narrow Lapa neighborhood alleys, we found ourselves walking the last couple of blocks to the rather discreet sign. And there we found what was easily one of the best meals we had in Portugal.

Proprietor and genial host Antonio Moita offers a lovely evening - full of delicious bites, beautiful views and friendly service.

Set in a 17th-century convent, with a picturesque courtyard, A Travessa features an international menu that includes a spectacular roasted pork (a house specialty) along with an array of beef and fish dishes - all with an appealing rustic elegance.

Dinner begins with fresh baked bread from the restaurant's wood oven and small plates of goodies - roasted wild mushrooms, sliced roasted pork, scrambled eggs with mushrooms and truffle oil, tiny roasted peppers, chorizo.

The wine list is a treat, with many of Portugal's best, including an extensive selection of Duoro reds.

As mentioned, the pork is well worth ordering for an entrée - it was some of the best we've ever had. The red deer filet mignon was also delish (as I say, we were in a meat mood!). But on a return visit, the skate in black butter sauce beckons, as does the octopus (during the trip, we'd had some fantastic octopus all over the country!).

Desserts were spectacular, thanks to the pastry chef hailing from Washington DC. Katherine Greenwald offered an assortment of sweets, each more scrumptious than the other, including an olive oil cake soaked in sweet milk and topped with green figs and toasted nuts, a walnut and prune semifreddo, and a chocolate pralineé with coffee, toasted almonds and caramel. We were in absolute heaven.

All of our future visits to Lisbon will definitely include at least one meal at A Travessa - in winter, we'll eat inside by the fireplace, and in summer, we'll dine al fresco in the wide courtyard. Perfect!

A Travessa
Travessa do Convento das Bernardas, 12
Bairro da Madragoa - Santo
1200-638 Lisbon
Tel: (+351) 21 390 20 34 / 21 394 08 00
www.atravessa.com/uk/index.htm


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