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April/May 2008

Past Issues: Quick Entertaining, aug/sep 2006 -
Smoked Salmon

Smoked salmon is hugely popular in America as a so-called luxury food, even though just a few decades ago, it was almost exclusively a Jewish deli staple and not nearly as expensive as it is now.

The good news is that it's virtually everywhere now - practically every grocery store offers at least one brand or variety of this silky, versatile delicacy. And it's a perfect Quick Entertaining ingredient, adding instant panache and elegance to even the simplest presentation.

We think smoked salmon from Scotland is still the best - with its rich fattiness, silky (but not overly soft) texture and complex flavors. Irish smoked salmon is also excellent, though quite different - it tends to offer a smokier flavor and drier texture. The eastern seaboard of America, up through Canada (including Nova Scotia!) is a consistent source of Atlantic smoked salmon that's also good, if not as complex as the Scottish version.

Freshly cut smoked salmon is far superior to the pre-sliced packaged versions - it's worth seeking it out to test the difference. Buying a whole side and cutting it at home is ideal, though some of the better groceries have salmon available for cutting to order.

But the packaged versions keep getting better, and with so many choices, it's more and more likely that you can find some high quality Scottish or Atlantic smoked salmon that will please even the most discerning connoisseur.

The best wine for smoked salmon is surely bubbly, although we also love the smoky character of Pinot Gris here.

One last tip - let your salmon rest for 20 or 30 minutes outside of the refrigerator before you serve it, allowing the salmon to "melt" a bit and creating a more lush, flavorful impression.

Broad, thin slices of high quality smoked salmon are delicious on their own, perhaps served solely with a wedge of lemon or lime. Beyond that, the uses for smoked salmon are virtually endless. Here are a few of our Quick Entertaining favorites:

Cocktail hour:
Smoked Salmon Wrapped Breadsticks
Spread a bit of softened, unsalted butter on breadsticks and then wrap with a slice of smoked salmon. Ideal with a glass of bubbly!

Endive or Romaine Spears with Smoked Salmon
Mix softened cream cheese with minced fresh dill. Spread a teaspoon or so at the base of each endive or romaine spear and sprinkle with chopped smoked salmon. Finely chopped tomato and green onion make a tasty garnish.

Smoked Salmon and Lemon Vodka Cream
Whip heavy cream, then quickly fold in a spoonful of lemon vodka, a sprinkling of lemon zest, and a grind of black pepper. Pipe or dollop on toast points. Roll up thin slices of smoked salmon and lay them on their sides on top of the cream. Top with additional lemon zest or a small dollop of caviar.

Smoked Salmon & Cucumber Cocktail Bites
Not just for tea time, the contrast between the crunch of the cucumber and the silkiness of the salmon is irresistible. Slice a peeled, seedless cucumber as thinly as possible. Place on bread rounds that have been spread lightly with cream cheese that has been thinned with sour cream or good quality unsalted butter. Season with salt and pepper and top with smoked salmon and another bread round.

Starters:
Smoked Salmon Tartare with Chives
Chop smoked salmon coarsely. Mix with chopped chives, a spritz of lemon juice, a small amount of Dijon mustard, and continue to chop until salmon is in small bits. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mound on small plates and serve with lemon wedges and toasts.

Savory Pancakes with Smoked Salmon
Make your favorite pancake recipe - just leave out the sugar and add some minced herbs of your choice - chives, dill, tarragon, parsley. Top warm pancakes with a dollop of sour cream that has been mixed with more of the minced herbs, salt and pepper. Top with sliced smoked salmon and serve with a lemon wedge and a sprig of herb as a garnish. Also makes a great weekend breakfast dish!

Main Course:
Smoked Salmon Pasta with Cream & Herbs
Easy and elegant! Roughly chop about half of your smoked salmon and place in a food processor along with some heavy cream (about 3 ounces salmon to 1 cup cream). Process just until smooth and transfer to a saucepan. Heat gently, along with some minced fresh herbs - chives and dill are ideal. Add the rest of your salmon, cut into thin strips and continue to heat gently. Check for seasonings. Toss with hot pasta. Sprinkle with additional minced herbs and serve.

Smoked Salmon Pizza
Brush a frozen pizza crust with olive oil and sprinkle with chopped red onion. Bake according to package instructions. Top with smoked salmon, baby arugula leaves, additional minced red onion, and a dollop of sour cream. Serve immediately.

Smoked Salmon Salad with Goat Cheese Toasts
Toss very thinly sliced red onion, fennel bulb and baby arugula leaves with extra virgin olive oil, fresh lime juice and a sprinkling of minced fresh dill. Toss gently with thin slices of smoked salmon. Serve alongside toasts that have been spread with softened goat cheese. Garnish salad and toasts with capers.

 

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