Like nearly every other
wine region of France, Burgundy produces
a number of distinctive
wines. From Chablis to Beaujolais, Burgundy
wines are a world unto themselves.
The heart and soul of the
region is widely thought to be the 30-mile
line of rolling hills starting just south
of the city of Dijon, known as the Côte
d’Or. The villages at the far north
end of the Côte d’Or are collectively
called the Côte de Nuits. The Côte de
Nuits is a predominately red wine area
– almost exclusively Pinot Noirs.
(This map is from Promenades en France,
a great looking wine and gastronomy tour
company. Learn more about them at their
website!)
These Pinot Noirs can be
incredible. Full bodied. Heady perfumed
bouquets. Complicated. Generous. Tannins
that turn remarkably smooth with age.
Because of the specific natures of each
area’s particular soil and weather
factors, each village’s wine has
its peculiar style and characteristics.
In other words, what is true of so much
of French wine is particularly true of
these wines: you must pay attention to
who makes the wine and the appellation
of the wine itself. The best way to do
this, in my opinion, is to become comfortably
familiar with a small number of these
wines, and then expand your knowledge
base little by little.
Chambertin,
Morey-St-Denis, Musigny, Richebourg. They
are different enough from each other for
you to detect the uniqueness of each village
and form your own preferences.
Chambertin is the best-known of the Grands
Crus of the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation.
A great Chambertin has clarity and brilliant
depth of color, a perfumed and delicate
bouquet, and a remarkably intense flavor.
These are big wines, but not at all heavy.
With the proper aging, they take on the
velvety smoothness that is their trademark.
($N/A). Vivacious, sophisticated, velvety.
Great Pinot juiciness. Elegant finish.
Not at all bad now, but will be at its
best in a few years.
($100). Excellent wine from one of my
favorite producers. Sophisticated Pinot
fruit flavors marry beautifully in this
very well-balanced wine. Outstanding length.
Best from 2008.
($99).
A spicy, even peppery, example of this
wine. Very much enjoyed the juicy fruit
up front, and the balance that the spiciness
gives. Tough tannins at this point, but
in a few years -- five to ten -- it ought
to be very nice indeed.
($130). Wow, this
is a blockbuster. If you're looking for
a classic example of Chambertin terrior,
and price is no object, then this is the
wine for you. Velvety Pinot Noir flavors
with an earthy core, knock-you-silly tannins,
and a fabulous fruity finish combine to
make this a terrific wine. Needs time
in the bottle -- check back in about ten
years.
The Morey-St.-Denis appellation has come
into its own in the last twenty-five years
or so. The overall quality of these wines
is reliably very good. These Pinots are
known for a certain taste layer –
a sort of an earthy, roasted meat (don't
worry, this is subtle) flavor overlaying
the Pinot fruit. They also have a somewhat
firmer finish than other Burgundy Pinots.
In other words, these Pinots are on the
hearty end of the Pinot scale.
($43). Fabulous
wine from my hands-down favorite Morey-St.-Denis
producer. Excels in the earthy, meaty
flavor that this appellation is known
for. Wonderful cherry, a touch of spice,
and a lasting finish add up to a fantastic
wine. Excellent now (with just a bit of
breathing first) and should continue to
improve over the next three to five years.
($90). Plenty of pure Pinot flavors like
cherry, red berries, and violet dance
around on the palate in this beautifully
full wine. Characteristic firm tannins
and finish mean this wine will age very
well, at least five to ten years.
Another very good Morey-St.-Denis
producer: Domaine
Tortochot.
This is one of the major Grands Crus of
the Chambolle-Musigny appellation. The
appellation as a whole is known for Pinots
that are known more for their complex
grace and "femininity" than
their weight, and the Musigny wines are
the most extreme examples of the appellation.
"Delicate, silky, velvety, elegant,
harmonious, feminine" – these
are the adjectives most often used to
describe Musigny wines.
($350). You simply won't do better than
this supple, elegant wine. Blackberry,
cherry, harmonious florals, and a silky,
generous finish combine to make an unforgettable
Musigny. Needs time though, give it about
ten years.
($175).
I personally love the generous vanilla
flavor that mingles with this Pinot Noir,
even though not everyone would consider
that desirable in a Musigny. Nice spicy
blueberry on the finish. Drinking very
nicely now and should continue for the
next few years.
J ($180). Well,
hello gorgeous. Gee, I think I've said
this before, but if you want a classic
example of a Musigny at its best, and
price is no object, pick yourself up a
bottle of this beauty. Elegant cherry,
currant, blackberry flavors. A musty dampness
underneath. Harmonious. Balanced. Lingering
finish. This wine is coming into its own
and should be ready to drink in just a
year or two.
A smallish area of the Vosne-Romanée appellation,
Richebourg wines are marked by an explosive
floral-spicy bouquet that is mirrored
on the palate. Warm, concentrated, and
generous, these Pinot Noirs are exceptional.
They generally have almost overwhelming
tannins at a young age, and usually need
a minimum of ten years before they smooth
out. These are boutique wines, so get
your checkbooks out, boys and girls.
($184). Hard to find, but worth it. This
is a beautiful example of terroir, with
a spicy floral current balancing the smooth
berry of the Pinot grape. Lingering finish,
but big tannins will require some age,
probably ten years, or so.
($650). No,
it's not a typo. That's the price. And
if any young wine (that, by the way, is
drinking now) could be worth that kind
of money, it just might be this one. This
is one of those wines that you taste and
think, "How did they get all those
flavors in there?" Beyond the classic
Pinot flavors lies a wealth of sensuous,
almost mysterious, notes. Feels like walking
along a Turkish spice bazaar. Somebody
peel me a grape.
($275). Incredible. Flowery fruit, a bit
of anise and tangy acidity, velvet glove
tannins, this one is a showstopper. Somehow,
this legendary Domaine has produced a
wine that is fantastic now and will continue
to be this good, or even better, for the
next quarter century.
These are some of the world's
best wines, pure and simple. Get ready
to spend some buck on them, but they can
be well worth the hefty price tags. You
will appreciate the differences in these
four villages. However, there are dozens
of other outstanding regions in the Côte
de Nuits, and I encourage you to try those,
too.
The best way I know to gain
an appreciation for the unique characteristics
of these wines is to simply line ‘em
up. Buy one of each, get some bread and
water to cleanse your palate between tastes,
and start drinking. Really concentrate
on the differences between the wines.
You’ll be able to spot them. The
next time you’re in a restaurant
with some of these wines on the list,
order one! Don’t worry about pronunciation;
just experiment and have fun with it.
(Don't forget your credit card with lots
of space on it!)
