The Alsace region is in
the north-eastern corner of France, nestled
between the Vosges Mountain range and
Germany's Rhine Valley. The Alsace climate
is dry, and the soil includes a mix of
limestone, gravel, silt, clay, and granite.
The wines of Alsace are consistently of
high quality, often reasonably priced,
and you will enjoy getting to know these
exquisite wines. I've suggested a few
specific wines, but because of the consistency
of these wines, you should feel confident
trying whatever you find in your local
wine store.
The grape varieties used
in Alsace include Gewürztraminer, Muscat,
Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and
Riesling. The Pinot Noir grapes are usually
used for rosé wine. In other words, Alsace
wines are almost all white wines made
from highly aromatic grapes. One other
interesting note -- the wines of Alsace
are generally labeled by grape variety,
rather than geographical origin, in direct
contrast to most of the wines of France.
Producers to look for include Hugel, Meyer-Fonne,
Domaines Schlumberger, and Bott-Geyl.
-- These are often thought to be the most
"typical" Alsace wines. They
are certainly among the most popular.
From light body and color to golden ripe
fullness, these wines are wonderfully
versatile. The spicy characteristic of
the Gewürztraminer grape is a remarkable
contrast to the limestone mineral note
gained from the soil.
($17). Luscious nectarine, apricot, florals,
and spice combine to make yet another
winning wine from Meyer-Fonne, one of
Alsace's best. Just off-dry and ready
now to quench a summer thirst.
-- This appellation produces
single vineyard white wines from Gewürztraminer,
Muscat, Pinot Gris, or Riesling. So what
you'll see on a label will be "Pinot
Gris Alsace Grand Cru" or "Riesling
Alsace Grand Cru" and so on. You
will also find the name of the vineyard.
The Grand Cru-ness, if you will, of these
wines virtually guarantees a wine of excellent
structure and full body. However, the
characteristics of any of these wines
are necessarily dictated by the type of
grape that is used.
($23). Medium-bodied, dry, with citrus,
apple, and mineral notes. This wine has
a lingering finish that is excellent.
Very good now, and should age for at least
another three years.
($27). This may be my favorite wine from
this article. It is elegant and crisp,
with tastes of fresh apricot, green apple,
and lime. Absolutely dry with good structure
and a solid finish. Excellent now, and
will age nicely for the next four or five
years.
-- These are
late harvest wines made from botrytis
(the so-called noble rot) affected grapes.
Think Sauternes. Think very sweet, intense,
rich wines -- but with good acidity and
no cloying characteristics. These wines
are produced only in "excellent"
vintage years and then in very small quantities.
($45, 500 ml). Wow. Honeyed peaches, racy
lime, florals, minerals, all good, all
good!
-- Pinot Gris from
this region produces a heady wine that
is perfumed and rich, low in acidity,
but still dry. You may occasionally see
the word "Tokay" on these labels
-- just another word for the Pinot Gris
wines.
($20). A medium-bodied
version of an Alsace Pinot Gris, but typical
in all other ways. Low acidity, soft orchard
fruits, buttery, floral bouquet. Ready
now.
-- Elegant. That is the word that comes
to mind with these wines. Restrained fruit,
floral notes, clean finish, good acidity,
and well structured. Non-Grand Cru Rieslings
can generally be drunk young, but the
Grand Crus can and should age for a couple
of years at least.
($15). Bone dry with green apple, mineral,
and citrus flavors. Can you say refreshing?
Ready now.
-- Muscat wines have a clear, clean "grapiness"
that endears them to Muscat lovers around
the world. Highly aromatic, sometimes
rich, often slightly musky. These wines
are perfect aperitif wines.
($14). Dry and crisp, with floral and
spicy notes gracing a clean citrusy core.
Ready now.
These Alsace whites are
the essential opposite of a big oaky,
buttery California Chardonnay. If you
aren't crazy about those Chardonnays or
are just looking for an excellent change
of pace, definitely give these Alsace
wines a try. Cheers!
