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April/May 2008

Past Issues: California Wine Gems, oct/nov 2003 -- Vines and Vision Quests at KitFox

California Dreamin on I-5
The Interstate 5 freeway (known as I-5 to Californians) stretches for hundreds of miles as it traverses California’s Central Valley "breadbasket."  Hugging the base of the Diablo Coastal Range Mountains between San Jose and Merced, I-5 ranges past the little town of Patterson in Stanislaus County, home to the endangered San Joaquin Kit Fox and KitFox Vineyards.

A third generation Patterson family is growing a new crop just a half-mile off the freeway. The new crop is grapes. The family is the Vogels. And the dream is a new future for this farming territory, where people still do business on a handshake and cottage industries are just that.

A Winery Like No Other
The dreamers are KitFox principals Hunter and Fred Vogel, son and father, and Hunter’s wife, Laura. KitFox is part of their dream - but only part.  They have just received county approvals for plans to build a winery facility that far surpasses the typical small family winery vision. As a heritage center, wine education experience, family entertainment and tourist attraction, event facility and artisan cuisine center, KitFox winery is designed to put western Stanislaus County on the map.

"We’ve been here since the ‘40s, and it’s a terrific place to farm, with terrific people," says Fred. "We want to see it become a destination. Thousands of tourists pass by here, but they don’t stop. This is an under-appreciated area. It’s a field of dreams."

A Sly Fox and Cottage Industries
Living among those fields is the San Joaquin Kit Fox, an elusive animal that few people here have ever seen. More in evidence are the many families producing high quality foods of all kinds, on a small scale and sometimes known only to their neighbors. With their KitFox facility, the Vogels hope to put the spotlight on those cottage industries.  "Local families are making apricot jam, honey, olive oil, cheeses, and there is no market here for them.  We want to help them promote their great products," says Hunter.

"Maybe a farmer’s wife makes jam every Christmas.  She can pack it, create a brand and we can sell it at our facility, grow sales, start internet sales, and help her get to a place where she might outdo her husband’s farm!  In addition to promoting our wines, we want to encourage the agricultural heritage of this valley."

As for the Kit Fox, the Vogels want to make it the mascot for the Central Valley, even though many farmers hate it.  "So much of their land is turned into Kit Fox mitigation land.  We understand that.  But we also know the San Joaquin Kit Fox is endangered and totally unique to this area."  They plan to donate a part of their profits to environmental groups that benefit the Central Valley.

Meanwhile, Back at the Vineyard
Hunter and his dad planted their 44 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc in 1999, after UC Davis confirmed their property’s soils and climates would be good for grapes.  Stan Grant, a vineyard consultant, has helped them transition from almonds to grapes, while Chad Joseph of Narcizo Winery handles the winemaking.

According to Fred, the winery idea was Hunter’s.  "I’ve always been a grower. But our family has never taken a product into processing and marketing before. Hunter and Laura are doing this, and I’m growing the grapes for them." As Hunter explains, "We realized we can grow almost anything here, and of all the things you could grow, wine is the most complex and exciting," explains Hunter.

Stop by for a Tasting
If your plans include traveling I-5, call and arrange a tasting with Hunter and Laura: (209) 892-8020, PO Box 1153, Patterson, CA 95363.  

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich berry aromas wrapped in coffee and cedar notes.  Deep flavors, smooth tannins. Ninety-five percent of the Cabernet fruit for this Cab came from KitFox’s estate vineyards. Five percent Cabernet Franc was added for tannins and structure from Watts Vineyard in Lodi. The wine was aged in French, American and Hungarian oak for 8 months (all new). Delicious with lamb, venison, lasagna and well-aged filet mignon. Enjoy now or hold up to 5 years.

2002 Fume Blanc. Tropical, citrus and apple flavors on a refreshing palate. Crisp finish. This Sauvignon Blanc is 100% estate produced at KitFox’s valley floor vineyards, just across from the Diablo Grande foothills in Stanislaus County. A small portion of Chardonnay was added, purchased from Olde Lockeford in Northern California.  "We tasted about 50 Chardonnays and decided to go with Olde Lockeford Vineyard, for its tropical flavors," says Hunter. The Chardonnay aged in American oak for 10 months. "We like the vanilla quality of the American oak," says Hunter. The Sauvignon Blanc was kept in stainless steel. An extremely food friendly wine, great with chicken or fish, and for quaffing, too! Enjoy now or hold up to two years.

Name:  KitFox Vineyards
Owner:  The Vogel Family
Established:  2001
Winemaker:  Chad Joseph
Annual Production:  14,000 cases
Website:  www.kitfoxvineyards.com

The California Wine Club has provided this wine country story. For more information visit www.cawineclub.com or call 1-800-777-4443.

 

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