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Weekly Wine Pick: Matanzas Creek 2007 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley

Here’s a wine that’s not only delicious, sophisticated and relatively affordable — it’s also widely available!

Matanzas Creek 2007 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley ($29). A sleek, lemony throughline stays crisp and elegant from beginning to end, and supports ripe pear, tropical citrus and fig flavors. With touches of toast, butter and cream through the long, rich finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Pairing: Grilled Cinnamon Duck with Caramelized Shallots & Syrah

Here’s a recipe that is simpler than you can believe — always a good thing, if you ask me.

Recipe: Poultry: Grilled Cinnamon Duck with Caramelized Shallots
8 servings

2½ pounds boneless duck breast
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1½ cups thinly sliced shallots
¾ cup sherry vinegar
3/8 cup light brown sugar
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Combine olive oil and cinnamon in ziplock bag; add duck breasts. Marinate overnight in refrigerator.

To make caramelized shallots: Combine sliced shallots, sherry vinegar, and brown sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook slowly until shallots are soft and syrupy, about 30-40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Prepare grill. Remove ducks from marinade and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper. Place ducks on grill, skin sides down. Grill, turning once, for 5 to 6 minutes per side.

Remove from grill. Allow to rest for five or ten minutes. Thinly slice duck breasts against the grain. Serve with caramelized shallots.

Wine Pairing: Try a California Syrah here — still a mostly undiscovered category, it seems. And there are plenty of good choices, like the Handley Cellars 2006 Syrah Dry Creek Valley Handley Vineyard ($20). Aromatic and pretty, with black cherry and berry fruit layered with chocolate and perfumed baking spices. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Big Deal Cabs… Splurge-worthy!

There are days when I really love my job — and tasting a bunch of big, structured Cabernets is a good example of a really good day. (It looks like another wave of winter weather is on the way — so pick up one of these today to see you through!)

Beaulieu Vineyard 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Georges de Latour Private Reserve ($110). Structured and elegant, with wild berry and black currant fruit layered with aromatic sage, cedar, spicy dark chocolate, cigar box and dusty tannins. Should age beautifully — 7-10 years, at least – but its supple finish makes it awfully appealing now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

L’Aventure 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles Estate ($85). Big and dense, with spicy black currant, blackberry, blueberry, clove and rich tobacco aromas and flavors that build through the slightly alcoholic finish. This is monster Cab that packs a flavor wallop. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mayacamas 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($65). Intense and tightly wound — just a baby at this stage. With black currant, wild blackberry, sage, allspice and big, dusty tannins. Needs loads of decanting now to smooth out. Best after a few years bottle age, then drink for at least another decade. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2010-02-19)

Mayacamas 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($150). This was actually my New Year’s Eve wine a couple of months ago. I’m including it here because it’s available again from the winery library. Complex dried tobacco, mineral and sage notes surround a core of lithe cherry fruit. Silky on the front/mid palate, then the grip kicks in on the finish. Drinking very well now. Should continue to age well for another 5-10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Meyer Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($45). Really good (and really well-priced!), offering waves of supple, rich blackberry, black cherry, cream, licorice and dark chocolate, with a lush finish supported by integrated tannins. Ready to drink now and over the next 5-7 years. Locate this wine online or in your area. 

Saunter 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($65). Just a baby at this stage. Offers intensely concentrated fruit — blackberry, black currant — with hints of coffee and toasted vanilla mid-palate. Fruit takes over again on the long, rich finish. Opened up with a bit decanting. Quite impressive for a debut release! I’ll be curious to taste this again in 5-10 years! Locate this wine online or in your area.

Navarro’s Aromatic Whites

I recently fell for three aromatic whites from Navarro Vineyards – one dry and two sweet. All three are deeply perfumed, with silky, clean fruit flavors and long, intense finishes. Here are my notes:

Navarro Vineyards 2007 Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley ($19). Loved the pretty floral and stone accents to the lush apricot, peach, orange citrus and spice flavors, with a rich, mouthwatering finish. Outstanding. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Navarro Vineyards 2007 Riesling Anderson Valley Late Harvest($19). Loads of botrytis character here, with focused apricot, citrus marmalade, pineapple and musk notes that mingle on the long, sweet, mouthwatering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years.

Navarro Vineyards 2006 Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley Cluster Select Late Harvest (750ml $59, 375ml $29). Syrupy sweet, offering layers of apricot, honey, pretty citrus, dried pineapple and brown sugar, with a long, sticky finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Weekly Wine Pick: Mayacamas 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Here’s a wine built for aging– like all Mayacamas wines, it will continue to evolve and improve in the bottle for years to come:

Mayacamas 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($65). Intense and tightly wound — just a baby at this stage. With black currant, wild blackberry, sage, allspice and big, dusty tannins. Needs loads of decanting now to smooth out. Best after a few years bottle age, then drink for at least another decade. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Nibbles: Parmigiano Reggiano

If you’re still buying the plastic cans of chalky, tasteless powder that are labeled “Parmesan,” I hope this article will persuade you to move to the real thing!

Real Parmigiano-Reggiano (the complete Italian name for Parmesan) is unlike anything else – particularly that stale, fake stuff in the plastic can. It is a hard, granular cheese that is made from raw cow’s milk in several areas in Italy. With a centuries-old history and an intricate production process that includes extensive aging and quality control, true Parmigiano-Reggiano has a complex, nutty, salty taste with a somewhat grainy texture.

Having a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano in the fridge — wrapped in wax paper, not shrink wrap – is a culinary necessity, if you ask me. There are literally hundreds of uses for this classic cheese – whether it’s a final flourish or the starring ingredient.

I recently heard Nigella Lawson say that as a child she saw a very sophisticated Italian woman serve a bowl full of Parmigiano-Reggiano shards at a glamorous holiday cocktail party, and so she regularly does the same today. In addition to this resolutely unadorned presentation, here are a few other suggestions that are ideal for Quick Entertaining moments. For all of these tasty nibbles, serve an Italian red wine alongside!

Snacks and Pre-Meal Nibbles
Flatbread with Parmigiano and Black Pepper
— Cover toasted flatbread triangles (or pita chips or your favorite grainy crackers) with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano (use a vegetable peeler to make long shavings). Then crack some black pepper over the cheese and drizzle with good quality olive oil.

Parmigiano with Balsamic Vinegar – Simply dot slivers of Parmigiano with a few drops of very good quality, aged Balsamic. A classic pairing that is delicious with crusty bread.

Salads & Sides
Slivered Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano – Toss a variety of crunchy salad ingredients, especially fennel bulb, red onion, romaine lettuce, blanched snowpeas and the like – all thinly sliced – in a simple oil and white wine vinegar salad dressing. Season with salt and pepper and then top with a generous amount of shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Delicious alongside some good quality black olives and/or sliced salami.

Arugula, Anchovy & Parmigiano-Reggiano Salad – Toss baby arugula leaves with a pinch of kosher salt and some good quality extra virgin olive oil. Top with anchovy fillets and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss and enjoy!

Parmigiano Grits or Polenta – Combine 3 cups water, 1 cup milk,, 1 cup quick-cooking grits or polenta and 1 teaspoon salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until creamy, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and stir until cheese melts. Season to taste with black pepper. Delicious served with steaks, baked chicken, pork chops, grilled shrimp or just about anything!

Roasted Mushrooms with Parmigiano-Reggiano – Drizzle mushrooms – portobellos, shiitakes or other wild mushrooms – with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast in a 400F oven until liquid has evaporated and mushrooms are tender. Transfer to a serving dish and cover with a generous amount of shaved Parmigiano and a final drizzle of olive oil.

Main Dishes
Pasta with Butter, Parmigiano and Pepper
– Cook one pound of your favorite pasta just until tender and drain, reserving about a cup of the cooking water. Return pasta to cooking pot and add about ¼ cup of the cooking water, a generous amount (about 2 cups) of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, one stick softened unsalted butter and stir over medium heat until cheese melts and pasta is coated with sauce. Add additional cooking water if pasta seems dry. Season with salt and plenty of freshly cracked black pepper. Serve at once.

Grilled Parmigiano-Reggiano Sandwich – Cover one slice of grainy sandwich bread with a layer of grated Parmigiano, then grind black pepper over the cheese. Cover with a second slice of bread. In a frying pan, melt a generous tablespoon of butter over medium-low heat until foamy. Add the sandwich, pressing it slightly into the pan, and fry until golden on both sides, turning once. Drain sandwich briefly on a paper towel and then cut in half diagonally. Makes a terrific lunch alongside a simple green salad.

After Dinner
Fruit, Parmigiano-Reggiano & Honey – Serve slices of ripe apple, pear, apricots or peaches or grapes alongside slivers of Parmigiano and a pot of honey for drizzling. If you’re feeling more ambitious, you can roast or grill the fruit before serving!

Winery Spotlight: Greenwood Ridge

One of the wineries that I visited last year on my Mendocino/Anderson Valley trip was Greenwood Ridge Vineyards. Proprietor/winemaker Allan Green was an enthusiastic and gracious host — about the wine and the region (and all things baseball!).

I had the opportunity to taste through the winery’s current releases, but I have to also mention that one of the most memorable wines I tasted all week (and possibly all year) was from the Greenwood Ridge library. Allan showed up at a dinner later that evening with a bottle of his 1990 Late Harvest Riesling, and it was a knockout. Or, perhaps more appropriately, a way-out-of-the-park homerun!

Here are my notes on the wines:

Greenwood Ridge 2007 Pinot Gris Anderson Valley ($18). Clean and silky, with pretty orange blossom aromas accenting juicy grapefruit and  orange citrus fruit, with a refreshing finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Greenwood Ridge 2007 White Riesling Mendocino Ridge ($18). Aromatic and peachy, with an array of honey, fig, lime and floral notes that build through the long, juicy, mouthwatering finish. Off-dry. Delish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. (Maybe more!) Locate this wine online or in your area.

Greenwood Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge ($30). Rich black cherry and berry aromas and flavors are subtly laced with wet earth, smoky bittersweet chocolate, lightly-roasted herbal notes and a touch of creamy vanilla. Full-bodied. Ready to drink now and over the next 5-7 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Greenwood Ridge 2006 Merlot Mendocino Ridge ($27). Ripe and smooth, with intense cherry and blackberry character laced with rich chocolate and appealing herbal notes. Shows a bit of grip on the otherwise supple finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

And from the library:

Greenwood Ridge 2001 Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge ($N/A). Appealingly aged, with earthy and dried fruit notes playing off still-pretty red fruits. Complex, lightly spicy finish. Lovely.

Greenwood Ridge 1990 Late Harvest Riesling Mendocino Ridge ($N/A). This was such a treat and really enchanted the whole table — including several area winemakers. Intense, complex, still lovely lime skin, green apple, floral and mineral character. Forever finish. Wow.