My friend Julie recently asked me to send her the details of a trip I did a few years ago to Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail, and I realized that somehow this info hadn’t migrated over to this site. (I cringe to think about how many other articles I’ve missed…) So here it is. It’s been about five years since I did this trip, and I’m sure there are several new restaurants, hotels, etc. that are not accounted for — maybe I’ll just have to go back and do some more research! But I’ve at least checked on all the places named in this article, and they’re all still up and running. This whole trip still ranks as one of my favorites, so I hope this info comes in handy to some of you.

I recently toured Kentucky, from Louisville to Lexington, and the area’s Bourbon Trail – in search of a bit of bourbon education, plenty of bourbon tasting, and a look at some of the gorgeous, lush countryside.

Louisville is a great place to start, with its booming downtown – complete with hip new restaurants, cultural high points like the new Muhammad Ali Center, and local arts and crafts. I kept having the feeling that there was more town than people here, which is a happy surprise for those of us used to fighting crowded airports, hordes of tourists and long lines. Louisville is a cinch to enjoy, with easy access to a downtown trolley, minimal traffic, tons of sightseeing, food, drink and breezes off the Ohio River.

LOUISVILLE CHECK IN & DINE

If the world can be neatly divided into halves, depending on preferences like Picasso vs. Matisse, Rome vs. Florence, or Cabernet vs. Pinot, then two of Louisville’s best hotels are surely another personality test category: The Brown vs. 21c Museum Hotel.

The Brown Hotel is a study in Louisville history and the very model of Southern hospitality. Stately Georgian Revival style, spacious suites, dark woods, plump chintz cushions, peonies, gracious service from check-in to valet. Plus, it’s positioned at one end of downtown, just a few steps away from the downtown trolley turnaround for easy exploration of the resurgent city center. (335 West Broadway, Louisville, KY 40202, 502-583-1234, reservations 888-888-5252 / 888-999-8075)

At the other end of the style range is the 21c Museum Hotel, with its 5,000 square foot exhibition space in the atrium, custom programmed iPods, flat screen TVs, reflexology spa services, and hip Proof on Main restaurant (see below). (700 W. Main St., Louisville, KY 40202, 502-217-6300 / 877-217-6400)

Absolutely do not miss Proof on Main at the 21c Museum Hotel. Flavorful food with a nice mix of local ingredients and techniques mixed with a healthy dose of forward thinking. Compelling smoked chicken with bread salad (order fast – it sells out!), delicious caramelized scallops, enchanting asparagus starter topped with a gleaming fried egg, double thick pork chops, and sweet tooth satisfying desserts like the warm vanilla cake with bourbon soaked cherries. All in a hip, contemporary art setting that takes ample care of feeding the senses. (702 W. Main Street, Louisville, KY 40202, 502-217-6360)

LOUISVILLE ART & CULTURE

Muhammad Ali Center – A moving place, no matter your interest level in the man or his life. Well done, with lots of interactive moments, for kids and adults. You’re sure to leave inspired. (144 N. Sixth Street, Louisville, KY 40202, (502) 584-9254)

Louisville Glassworks – Some breathtaking pieces here – a must stop for any Chihuly or Murano devotee. Some of these pieces will really open your eyes. Great tours, classes and opportunities to blow your own! Stop at the gift shop, but get your credit card warmed up first! (815 West Market Street, Louisville, KY 40202, 502.584.4510)

SIP, SAVOR, REPEAT

The Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge is a sleek respite from the sunny streets, with its cool mood lighting and cozy seating areas. Choose from a long list of bourbons (not just Maker’s Mark!) and tempting nibbles, including addictive rock shrimp “popcorn” with bourbon mustard aioli and sweet chili drizzle. Great for pre- or post-dinner drinks, or a leisurely afternoon of Old Fashioneds or Sazeracs. (446 S. 4th Street, Louisville, KY 40202, 502-568-9009)

Then it was east on I-64 to state capitol Frankfort and then Lexington, through horse country, with its rolling hills, green paddocks and famous distilleries. Charming for its traditions, unspoiled countryside and positively dripping with horse money. Lexington has a population of about 250,000 but still boasts resident symphony, ballet and theatre companies. It’s easy to fall in love with these gentrified, friendly towns – here are a few of highlights of my days there:

BOURBON

What distinguishes bourbon from other whiskeys? Four things:

1. It must be comprised of at least 51% corn.
2. It must be aged in new American oak barrels for a minimum of two years.
3. It cannot be distilled higher than 160 proof (80 percent alcohol).
4. It can be cut only with water to reduce the alcohol level.

Beyond that, bourbons can be made with blends of grains that include wheat and rye. Generally speaking, wheat bourbons are dense and smooth, while rye bourbons have a characteristic spicy kick that some compare to Scotch whiskey. I visited several distilleries and tasted more bourbons along the way than you would believe, including:

Woodford Reserve Distillery Loved that the distillery’s introductory film was shown in a kind of chapel, complete with hard pews for visitors. (As per usual, I headed for the back row.) Lovely grounds and an appealing gift shop. Loved Woodford’s Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon for its sweet, biscuity aromas and elegant fruit and honeyed notes that temper the alcohol bite.

Buffalo Trace Distillery So well done – with a beautiful display of historic photography of the distillery and its people. And great bourbons, particularly loved the Weller 7 Year Old Antique Bourbon for its easy-drinking wheat smoothness, and the Buffalo Trace Sraight Bourbon, a rye, with its sassy spice, toffee and anise notes. Not to mention the best “bourbon balls” (addictive chocolates with bourbon-spiked filling) I tasted anywhere – and I tasted a bunch!

Maker’s Mark Distillery All the Maker’s Mark branded stuff you could ever want, plus the opportunity to dip your own bottles in the signature red wax. I still love the original Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon, with its fruity nose, tobacco notes and dark caramel – still one of the best bargains in American whiskey around. Do also try the Limited-Edition version, with its muscular, caramelized character and long, resiny finish. Great for sipping.

Ancient Age 90 Kentucky Straight Bourbon 45% Alcohol – honeyed and rich, with slick tropical notes (coconut, toasted nuts) and deft balance through the finish.

Eagle Rare 10-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon 50.5% Alcohol – Yowza, this is strong stuff. But even for all its explosive, tongue-tingling flavors, it is still delicious, with peppery notes accenting the caramel and maple flavors.

BOURBON TRAIL DINE

Holly Hill Inn- Weekend brunch at this historic inn (right) was delightful, not least because of the chance to visit with co-owner Ouita Michel. Ouita is chef, and husband Chris is host and sommelier. Both are graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, and it shows in the delicious food (can you say cheese grits, pork chops, perfectly ripe tomatoes, and scrambled eggs with grilled trout?) and impeccable finishing touches. (426 North Winter Street, Midway, Kentucky 40347, 859-846-4732)

Dudley’s – Built in an old schoolhouse, Dudley’s is instantly loveable. Great space, great food, including a memorable BBQ Pork Eggroll that encased tender barbecued pork and roasted beet slaw in a crispy eggroll, served with a pineapple salsa and a bourbon glaze – perfect for greedily gobbling down every bite. (380 South Mill Street, Lexington, KY 40508, 859.252.1010)

Jonathan at Gratz Park – For someone who doesn’t particularly like fried green tomatoes, but feels compelled to keep ordering them – these were the best I’ve ever had. Crispy cornmeal coating was perfect, and the smoky bacon and creamy buttermilk dressing made a compelling combination. This promising beginning was followed quickly by a spectacular plate of blackberry barbequed quail served over local favorite Weisenberger Mill grits mixed with creamy goat cheese, with big swirls of blackberry barbeque sauce. The restaurant offers a pub and a more formal dining room – both serve the same food, so take your pick. (120 West Second Street Lexington, KY 40507 859.252.4949)

Portofino – One of those places that you like immediately – the people, the space, the art, the menu. Desserts were almost beside the point, which is not to say that you should even consider skipping them. This is a great place to hang out and taste through the wide offering of bourbons – just take small sips! (249 E Main St, Lexington, KY 40507, 859-253-9300)

BOURBON TRAIL CHECK IN

Meeting House B&B – Let’s be honest for a moment. When I see a B&B on an itinerary, I immediately cringe as thoughts of knickknacks and cripcrap and fake flowers and clown dolls crowd my brain. The Meeting House B&B is a most happy exception. Really lovely, with soaring ceilings and solid, comfortable beds. Owners Gary and Rose Burke are no small part of the draw here (even if he seems to have a Boston Red Sox cap permanently affixed to his head – hey, you’ve been warned!). And I think Rose could probably run the world, if given half a chance. She not only cooks for everyone, she’s made all the drapes and bedding, and even recovered most of the furniture. And it’s all well-done – not kitschy in the least. A great home base for exploring the region. (519 Ann Street, Frankfort, Kentucky 40601, (502) 226-3226)