photo by Sharon Sevrens, DWS

Grüner Veltliner.

Doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, does it? In fact, unless you speak German, you’ll probably never get it exactly right. But the English-accented version goes something like: GROO-ner Velt-LEEN-er. (Though it seems that most every English-speaking person misses that accent on the second word and goes with VELT-leen-er, instead. Just try to correct a wine geek on that. Go on. I dare you.) Or you can take the shortcut and stick to just plain ”Grüner.”

So what is it? It’s a grape. In fact, it’s the most-planted variety in Austria, blanketing the steep, picturesque hills in the Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal and other wine regions. And it makes a white wine with a signature peppery nose. Styles can range from the popular, medium-bodied, dry, refreshing sipper to a rich, full-bodied, textured, cellarworthy wine that can rival even the best white Burgundy.

In fact, not so many years ago, Grüner was a sommerlier’s darling — in part because of just how impressive these wines can be. (The other part may have had something to do with a slew of gratis trips to Austria that were offered to sommeliers a few years back, though I’m just speculating…) But as can happen in the trend-intensive wine world, Grüner’s once-fashionable profile seems to to have been in decline as of late. Which is a shame, because you’re not likely to find many more food-friendly, reliably tasty, affordable white wines. It works well with virtually anything you would serve with any white wine. I’ve recently matched Grüner with dishes as diverse as an earthy lentil stew, a Cajun-spiced roasted chicken, and a flatbread topped with goat cheese and sundried tomatoes.

And Grüner shows up in sites outside Austria, too, including Germany, New Zealand, Chile and California. Here are a few examples that I’ve enjoyed lately:

Loimer 2010 Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Niederösterreich Lois ($14). Zippy and refreshing, offering juicy red apple and ripe citrus character, with a dash of peppery spice through the fresh finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Birgit Eichinger 2009 Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kamptal Hasel ($15). Juicy, medium-bodied apple is accented with ruby grapefruit and ginger notes, with appealing texture and a fresh finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Zocker 2010 Grüner Veltliner Edna Valley Paragon Vineyard ($20). I do believe this is the first California Grüner I’ve ever tasted, and wow — what a nice surprise. With sleek, racy, white pepper-laced citrus (lime, pink grapefruit) accenting smooth melon notes, with a mineral edge through the dry, crisp finish. Very nice. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.