Asparagus is often thought of as one of those “cannot pair with wine” ingredients. But I think that’s overstating things. Yes, it’s true, asparagus can often affect the taste of a wine more than many other ingredients. That’s because asparagus contains a type of sulfur compound that can give wines a vegetal character — or magnify a vegetal note already in a wine.

But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to pair successfully. In general, you want to stay away from distinctly oaky whites (like most Chardonnay) and highly tannic reds (like Cabernet Sauvignon). But there are several safe choices, white and red, that work, at least in my book: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Beaujolais and Dolcetto, to name a few. The common thread here is that the wines are generally unoaked (or have very little oak), offer bright, tangy fruit flavors, good acid and low tannins. Here’s an example of a pairing that totally worked — a $12 Beaujolais Villages and a quick asparagus salad served alongside simple roasted chicken:

Louis Jadot 2009 Beaujolais Villages ($12). So easy to like, especially at this price. With delicate raspberry, red cherry, black tea, orange and mineral notes. Medium- to light- bodied, with a crisp finish. Ready to drink now.

Recipe: Asparagus Sesame Salad
This is a quick, flavorful salad that can easily be made with leftover grilled or steamed asparagus. But the salad, once tossed with the dressing, won’t keep well overnight — so be sure to serve and eat immediately! 4 servings

1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/4 cup baby arugula leaves
1/4 cup radicchio pieces
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted in a dry skillet

Heat a large pan of water to boiling. Lightly salt the water then add the asparagus pieces. Cook about 3 minutes, or until bright green. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Drain and pat dry.

In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, cilantro and salt, whisking lightly to combine. Add the asparagus and toss.

To serve, pile the arugula leaves on individual serving plates, or a large platter. Spoon the dressed asparagus onto the arugula and sprinkle with sesame seeds.