I came across a pretty traditional recipe for Jewish honey cake in an old Frugal Gourmet cookbook, but tweaked it a bit. One of my New Year’s resolutions was to switch to all whole wheat flours, at least in my own kitchen. So I used white whole wheat flour (plus a bit of amaranth flour, because I had some, and because the flavor seems to pair well with honey) in place of all-purpose flour, and olive oil instead of vegetable oil. Then I concocted a topping out of the same ingredients used in baking the cake.

The result was delicious, each honey-soaked bite balanced with a bit of tangy fresh orange. I used organic Cara Cara oranges, with their raspberry-tinted flesh and sweet, juicy flavor — but whatever you use, this is a nice way to celebrate the last of winter’s citrus. And a Malmsey Madeira pairing is a knockout!

Recipe: Honey Cake Topped with Brandied Oranges
2 1/2 cups white whole wheat flour
1/2 cup amaranth flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup freshly-made espresso or very strong coffee
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup honey
grated peel of 1 orange
2 tablespoons brandy
4 eggs
1 cup organic cane sugar
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Topping:
1 cup honey
4 tablespoons brandy
supremed segments of 2 oranges

Preheat oven to 325F. Oil a 13x9x2 baking pan and then line the bottom with wax paper.

Combine the flours, baking powder, cinnamon and baking soda in a small bowl; set aside. In another small bowl or measuring cup, stir together the espresso (or coffee), olive oil, honey, orange peel and brandy.

Using a mixer, beat the eggs until frothy; gradually add the sugar and beat well. Pour in the honey mixture and beat to combine. Add the flour mixture in two or three increments, mixing to combine after each addition. Stir in the walnuts. Pour into prepared pan and bake for about 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Invert the cake onto a wire rack. Cool. Peel off waxed paper.

Prepare topping by heating 1 cup honey in a small saucepan. Carefully add 4 tablespoons brandy and stir to combine. Add supremed orange segments and warm briefly. Spoon topping over each serving of cake.

Pairing:In a nutshell, “Malmsey Madeira” is a term used for the sweetest style of Madeira. There’s a lot more to it than that, but you can kind of get the idea if you imagine a tawny Port, but with a different texture (these always seem more transparent and less syrupy to me) and a noticeably higher citrusy acidity. I just love ‘em…

Blandy’s NV Madeira Malmsey 10-Year-Old ($38). Sweet, rich and concentrated, with bright caramel and honeyed aromas and flavors that end in a long, nutty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years.

Blandy’s NV Madeira Malmsey 15-Year-Old ($47). Intense caramel and burnt brown sugar notes are laced with savory coffee and walnut notes, candied orange and lightly salty tang that lingers on the long finish. Pair with something nutty. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years.

Blandy’s 1994 Madeira Colheita Malmsey ($48, 500ml). A “wow” wine — tangy fleur de sel lingers in the background and gives a subtle hit to the orange rind, caramel, maple, toffee and smoky walnut flavors. Clean, intense, powerful but not at all heavy. Ready to drink now and over the next 8-10 years.