This unoaked Chardonnay from Australia overcomes its cumbersome moniker and delivers refreshing, pure, affordable pleasure. It’s versatile, too — easy to like on its own, but with enough substance to pair with food. Enjoy!

Plantagenet 2008 Unoaked Chardonnay Western Australia Omrah ($15). Crisp green pear and light, smooth melon character are accented with generous zip of aromatic citrus acidity, with a clean, bright finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.