As I’ve mentioned a couple of times here, I’ve lately been tasting through a slew of under-$20 California Merlots. And as I’ve also said, it hasn’t been pretty… But I did manage to unearth a handful that I genuinely enjoyed — nothing cough-syrupy about these:

Kendall-Jackson 2007 Merlot Sonoma County Vintner’s Reserve ($19). Very nice, actually, with layers of deep plum and black cherry, dried herbs and sweet, exotic spices that linger on a sophisticated, complex finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Simi 2006 Merlot Sonoma County ($19). Smooth and plush, with deep plum and black cherry fruit accented with clove, fresh herbs and mocha notes. Made a lovely pairing for pan roasted veal chops. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Rutherford Ranch 2007 Merlot Napa Valley ($17). This one’s a nice surprise, with smooth, medium-bodied red cherry, blueberry and fresh herbal notes, picking up appealing spice and toasty vanilla on the bright finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-12-08)

Clos du Bois 2007 Merlot North Coast ($15). This one was a nice surprise, with rich red cherry and a respectably complex finish — currant, tobacco and cigar box notes mingling with toast. Try with a pre-dinner nibble like toasted pumpernickel slathered with herb-bathed chevre. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Round Hill 2008 Merlot California ($8). Easily the best under-$10 Merlot I tasted, offering admirable dryness and juicy, smooth red and blue berry fruit flavors laced with light smoke, spice and toast. A perfectly acceptable quaff. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.